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I have decided to bless you all with my limited and young introspections regarding the custom MODing and conversions of GW miniatures.
First off, BITZ ARE YOUR FRIENDS! If you don't live near a GW ditribution center Like the one in glen burnie MD (lucky me) and you have to get all your bitz via mail-order then you have my deepest sympathy on your geographical misfortune. But all that means is you have to plan everything out in advance.
Obviously the cleanest conversions are just swaping out bits you have for bitz you want (they make like half a dozen pieces of equipment with only the hand of the parent model on it, MC power swords, stormbolters, auspexies, MC bolters, MC bolt pistols, etc.)
If you can get away with something simple like a basic swap out, then do it!
Look at the GW online store when scounting for bits, they give you part numbers and prices and show everything availible: http://us.games-workshop.com/storefront/st...dual&code=8007A
A well thought out MOD can require very little actual work. Personally i find that painting takes me longer than conversions do.
Also, putty is your friend. Putty makes you happy, putty makes you strong and wise, putty makes your bitz stick together! If you've never used putty, here is a hint: Don't try and sculpt anything with it. Putty is good for filler. only add it where you can use the extisting modeled material to act as a guide for how to shape it. Thats a bit hard to describe but if you try and work with it you'll start to understand. Also use VERY SMALL amounts of putty at first. so far i end up cutting only a half centemeter off my putty tape per application, or less, and still end up letting half of it go to waste.
A good saw REALLY HELPS... The GW jewlers saw ain't that bad actually. But for plastics i would get what was called a 'razor saw,' the one i have is actually an X-acto knife extension and it was originally purchased by me for a balsa wood model plane. The teeth on the razor saw are closer together and smaller, and they cut both ways rather then metal cutting saws. The result is a blade that is less destructive to the imeadiate area of plastic being cut.
You DON'T need bits from many different models to make a good converstions. I made this stellar techmarine servo-arm coverstion and all i used were my tools, some staples, some glue, and some putty in addition to the actual servo-arm backpack itself.
Actually, i learned that tip from the `nids codex. Look at the store copy some time, they show how with only a `nid warrior model you can cut at the leg joints, use pins and putty to reposition the pose of the figure and suddenly a static standing warrior is in midleap ready to claw your eyes out. And all they used was one model, putty, and a pin vice set.
Add a little flare or inginuity and innovation to your Mods. I have this sword mod whose handle has a terminator crux cross as the pommel and it looks kinda neat. but it also counts as terminator honors for the game.
You can have a sense of humor, and your mods don't have to be stricktly legal either! My favorite MOD is a simple plastic apothecary holding two pistols 'gangsta-style' and it brings a smile to my face every time i see it, as well as looks cool.
Effort, patience and forthought are your best tools for MODing conversions, after that a nice set of saws, putty, and a pin-vice set come in handy too.
Hehe tell me about it, I got loads of bits from all kinds of sprues and a variety of knives just for modelling. But I disagree with you on the putty part, I have made some pretty cool things with Green stuff, like a banner and a sort of cape for one of my Champions.
Putty I find is good for little things, like badges and hair.
i get the hair capes, and i suppose i could see making a banner, but what kind of badges are you talking about? You better not be a tyranid player where a batched MOD for a bio-upgrade is just an odd mutation or 'adds character' to the model(and yes i see the chaos symbol...).
But seriously, aside from flowing type things and filler it seems using putty is a bit of a trick.
And how long is it supposed to take to fully cure? I was a bit disappointed when i could bend it after a day.
For badges I mean little insignia on armour, for example markings on shoulderpads
I think the official 'cure' time is 24 hours 8O . But I find that usually it's hard enough after 12 (maybe a few more) hours.
Ze titles yez...
When in doubt,
Smite.<SilverMane> I would trust BID with my life
<SilverMane> HEIL BID!
<Adrian-> BiD is Omnipotent; All Knowing, All Powerful!
<Scary_Troopers> I see you as an optimist, GT. : D
But what of the midgets!?
=]Front in favour of Moderation of the Harshest kind.[=