Trouble With Styrafoam And Foamcore. - Warhammer 40K Fantasy
 

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  1. #1
    Art Culinaire BLADERUNNER's Avatar
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    Gah! Lately, whenever I try to build buildings or forts with styrafoam and foamcore
    from the project boards exacto has, they tend to fall apart or melt from glue.

    Maybe I'm not using the right type and the right methods but its quite irksome.

    Also when I go to prime my scenery I find to utter horror the scenery melts!

    What am I doing wrong?

    -HONORABLE MENTIONS IN BLITZKRIEG PAINTING COMP-
    "THAT I.G. GUY WITH THAT OVERDEVELOPED TRIGGER FINGER"

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  3. #2
    Member crazyguy832's Avatar
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    Probably using a bad foam. In my experience, there are 2 types of foam.

    Type 1) The type that breaks apart from an ant crawling across it

    Type 2) The type that could get run over by a train and not even take a dent

    Needless to say, type 2 is the type you're gonna be looking for.



    I haven't tried building scenery with styrofoam personally, yet, but I hear foam-card is quite good for it.

    And what glue are you using? I just use normal white school glue for most of my craft projects, and it works awesome. Ah, yes, good ol' mind-numbing education.
    <img src='http://img111.exs.cx/img111/7254/crazysigpsd8yc.jpg' border='0' alt='user posted image' />

  4. #3
    LO Zealot WolfRaider's Avatar
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    All of the foam types you&#39;re likely to use melt when touched by any solvent based product, like superglue, spray paint, acetone, etc.

    Glue them with white glue or hot glue. Paint them all over with thinned white glue or cheap latex house paint before using any spray paint.

  5. #4
    Art Culinaire BLADERUNNER's Avatar
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    I&#39;ve heard sprapaints are easier and thats what I work with...and yeh I did just
    realize it but i&#39;ve been using citadel superglue... (o.0)

    What kinds of brands do I use for spraypaint that wont disolve?

    How do I keep the foamcore to stick together while the glue is drying?

    Example: I&#39;ve got segment a and segment b lined up in a L joint form
    for a blasted out building...I&#39;ve got sprues all over the floor for rubble..
    But the glue isnt strong enough yet to hold together.
    -HONORABLE MENTIONS IN BLITZKRIEG PAINTING COMP-
    "THAT I.G. GUY WITH THAT OVERDEVELOPED TRIGGER FINGER"

  6. #5
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    Tamiya does make a spray paint that will not melt foam board. I haven&#39;t looked for it for awhile but if memory serves the paint code is the one that begins with either an "AS" or "TS". They are mainly a UK based company so if you go to your local hobby store they should be able to help you out.
    Looking for a compliment here is like looking for a girlfriend in a cemetary. You know you probably won't like what you dig up, but you'll take it anyway.


  7. #6
    Art Culinaire BLADERUNNER's Avatar
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    I&#39;m located in the US. Preferably dont want to special order.
    -HONORABLE MENTIONS IN BLITZKRIEG PAINTING COMP-
    "THAT I.G. GUY WITH THAT OVERDEVELOPED TRIGGER FINGER"

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    So am I. The local stores here in Va don&#39;t carry Tamiya sprays and I don&#39;t want them to order any for me since they don&#39;t know which of the paint codes is the one. Ask your local guys and if you find out please PM it to me.
    Looking for a compliment here is like looking for a girlfriend in a cemetary. You know you probably won't like what you dig up, but you'll take it anyway.


  9. #8
    Thread Killer! slorak's Avatar
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    As stated above - white glue is best for gluing the pieces together. Also once the foam is sealed with thinned glue, latex brush on paint, etc. you can then use spray paints with no problems.

    Cheers,

    -Mike

    Now offering an affordable Tournament Legal Quality Commission pricing. Find out more here!

  10. #9
    LO Zealot WolfRaider's Avatar
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    I prefer hot glue at low temp for most foam applications. It bonds almost instantly and I hate to wait for white glue (elmer&#39;s, pva) to dry. You can use toothpicks inserted into the joints to hot parts together while the glue dries or if you need an extra hand.

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    GW just started a new Spray called &#39;Roughcoat&#39;, which is Codex grey and has a slight grain when dry. It doesn&#39;t react with any form of foam I&#39;ve tried it with so far - nice and unreactive&#33; What that means for durability I don&#39;t know - as it tempts you to not seal your terrain first - I always give mine a thin coat of filler at the least, just to give it some amount of strength. If you don&#39;t mind the mess, and your terrain is supposed to be natural looking, I can&#39;t reccommend it enough. A big tub will usually cost you at the most a tenner. Add a pack of sand and gravel to smooth decorators filler if you can&#39;t find any. It also means that models don&#39;t &#39;slip&#39; when there&#39;s a slope - it provides a nice bit of friction.

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