How Do I Make A Table? - Warhammer 40K Fantasy
 

Welcome to Librarium Online!

Join our community of 80,000+ members and take part in the number one resource for Warhammer and Warhammer 40K discussion!

Registering gives you full access to take part in discussions, upload pictures, contact other members and search everything!


Register Now!

User Tag List

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 27
  1. #1
    Senior Member IbramGaunt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Ireland
    Age
    28
    Posts
    277
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Reputation
    3 (x1)

    How Do I Make A Table?

    Now this isn't sort of "how do i make scenery" but more of, how would I make the table itself. How do you guys do it? Do you have an old table with the board attached to it?

    I was thinking of just getting wood and attaching legs to it and a hinge in the middle so i can fold it away when I'm done. How would I go about doing that?

    Also, whats the best material for making the board? MDF?


  2. Remove Advertisements
    Librarium-Online.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    The Orange Grey Knight MiketehFox's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Kelowna, BC, Canada
    Age
    28
    Posts
    3,830
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    ReputationReputationReputationReputationReputationReputationReputation
    196 (x8)

    WEll, I was planning to get my Dad (Mechanic) to make a sweet folding (Much like your plans) aluminum table, and for added versatility, you wuld actully insert the board, so that you could use many different boards.

    But thats been pushed off....

    Mike

  4. #3
    Senior Member Decado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    CHIPPENHAM
    Age
    40
    Posts
    907
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    ReputationReputationReputation
    66 (x2)

    the main problem that you'll have with that type of board, is the fact that the hinge that will allow the board to fold in half will be on your playing surface.

    this is how i did one of my boards;

    i took a old wodden wall papering table removed the thin mdf top, cut away the short ends then cut 2 x 3' by 4' 6mm mdf boards and fixed the two parts to the two long ends of the pasting table. take 2 2'' by 2'' battoning and attach it to the now longer gap between the ends of the of the pasting table and you now have a foldable playing table.
    for extra stability you can add another 2 2"by2" batoning on the inside of the table frame just below the metal folding joint, i definetly would suggest this.
    now for some of the technical details.

    1 ensure that you use 1'' screws all screw holes should be pilot drilled first.

    2 all screws must be counter sunk into the mdf.

    3 you will need 4 screws per 3' section

    4 once you have put the table together fill the tops of the countersunk screws with filler and sand them flat.

    it really is up to you how you finish the table i left mine flat without adornment but if you wanted you could coat the surface with pva and cover it with sand. once this is done paint it with whatever colour paint you wish then varnish it (but be warned this dramatically increases the weight of the table.
    WARMASTER of the SCHOLA PROGENIUM Alnwick Chapter (soon to be the world)

  5. #4
    The Orange Grey Knight MiketehFox's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Kelowna, BC, Canada
    Age
    28
    Posts
    3,830
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    ReputationReputationReputationReputationReputationReputationReputation
    196 (x8)

    As a note, if the hinges are placed on the bottom of the board, when the table folds out the hinges won't be see.

    Mike

  6. #5
    LO Zealot
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Two River WI, US
    Age
    27
    Posts
    1,341
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    ReputationReputationReputation
    57 (x3)

    I took four 4x4s for legs, 2x6 stretchers and a 1/2in CD 8x4 sheet of plywood. Little bit of joinery and my 250 lbs ass can sit on it.
    Three Companies of the 26th Vinancium
    143rd Airborne Badgers (99.9% done)
    159th Corsair Rifles (35% done))
    69th Armored Wall Busters (95% done)

    Total 197 men, 12 tanks, 4 Heavy Artillery Pieces

  7. #6
    Member Super Unknown's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    88
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Reputation
    2 (x1)

    I got 3 polystyrene sheets about 4" by 2". Either buy them from a shop (clark rubber in Aus) or pinch them from construction sites. I think they are used to protect windows in transport.

    Glue them on some MDF board for stability.

    Then spray them as is to get a quick minimum effort result (careful not to melt the foam). Or glue on sand/flock, reseal with PVA and spray paint. Maybe drybrush if you are going for a certian look.

    Line them up side by side to get a 6 by 4 board, or 8 by 4 board. Or find different sized peices to make a different sized table.

    I find these the best tables IMHO because they can be easily packed away. Also they are lightweight and can be set up on any largish table/saw horse + planks of wood (just don't scratch the good dining table ) On top of this you can also make an extra river section and swap it in for a change without perminatly altering the table. There are many options similar to this.

    Anyway these my findings and suggestions. Little effort required for hugh results.
    Good luck.

  8. #7
    Senior Member Decado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    CHIPPENHAM
    Age
    40
    Posts
    907
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    ReputationReputationReputation
    66 (x2)

    MiketehFoxAs a note, if the hinges are placed on the bottom of the board, when the table folds out the hinges won't be see.

    Mike
    if the hinge is on the underside then he won't be able to close the table as the legs wouldn't allow the table to close beyond an A frame shape. unless he adds battoning to the underside, of the middle then this would work.
    WARMASTER of the SCHOLA PROGENIUM Alnwick Chapter (soon to be the world)

  9. #8
    Zed
    Zed is offline
    Senior Member Zed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    A small dark room, I don't know where...
    Age
    26
    Posts
    371
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    ReputationReputation
    34 (x1)

    I usually just get some 3x4ft sheets of plywood and put them on a spare table, or, if need be, a floor. Otherwise I usually get an old, second-hand one from a boot sale. That way I can glue a hill to it if I want and it won't matter.
    "DICE FOR THE DICE GOD!"

    And the almighty Dice God said to his followers "Thou shalt not speak ye words "anything but a one" For thou whoever'st speaketh this blasphemy will be cursed with thy rolls being of one".
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  10. #9
    The Orange Grey Knight MiketehFox's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Kelowna, BC, Canada
    Age
    28
    Posts
    3,830
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    ReputationReputationReputationReputationReputationReputationReputation
    196 (x8)

    Decado, I never said it would work on everything, I just said that if they didn't want the hinges on top they could go on the bottom.

    Plus for the table I plan to build, it won't be an issue.

    Now, about the table I was planning to build....

    It'll be mostly aluminum if possible, with a 'slot' for inserting a 4' X 6' board (Or the 6 2'X2' sections ect ect) along with a 6" border all the way around to place books or models or what ever. It'll be aproximetly 3' high, as any higher and the legs won't fit after it folds in half.

    If Possible I will place wheels on the outer edges so that once it folds I can roll it around.

    Course for a normal 40K geek this might be hard to do AFAIK, but my dad is a mechanic and knows this kind of stuff well.

    Mike

  11. #10
    Member wastedinabattletank's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    34
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Reputation
    -1 (x0)

    this is the easyiest way to go

    This really is the easyiest way to go. It is also rellatively chaeper than normally building it. At a local hardware store they should have pre-constructed doors, get one without a doornob hole or any glass holes built in (basicly a big peice of wood.). Then get a non acrylic paint of the color u want and mix in roofing paint texture to make the landscape look a little more realistic. Using a rolling brush thing then spread it evenly across the board. After it dries it will be all ready for terrain.
    Laws are like sausages, it is better not to see them being made.
    Otto von Bismarck

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts