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I was told by some fellow "master painters" at my hobby store, that I should try Reaper's line of Pro Paints. I ended up buying one of their sets, and I tried to paint a Tau Pathfinder with a Rail Rifle. Now, I don't know if it's just the metal of the model, or my GW White Primer underneath, but the Pro Paints are rubbing off while I paint them.
Does anyone have any advise on these paints? I want to paint my future Tau Army like Blood Angels, and I think I might stick with GW paints, if these don't pan out.
I hope people are having fun.
Here is some information that comes right from the source. This is a posting from the minipainter yahoo group from Anne Foerster. Maybe this will clear up any questions that you have on how the Reaper pro paints work:"Hello everyone!
It's been ages since I posted on here but a friend of mine forwarded
me this thread, and I thought I would speak up to correct some
erroneous information on the Reaper Master Series Paints. For those
who don't know me, I'm Reaper's on-staff painter; I also designed the
RMS paint line, and still mix all the prototypes from the ground
1. Flow Improver *is* present in RMS paints, so that's why they flow
a bit better out of the bottle and have excellent pigment suspension
2. You will always get better coverage out of a vinyl base, which is
what VMC uses for their paints. We chose to go with an Acrylic/Latex
blend instead, because the other characteristic of vinyl is that it
rubs off very easily. This drives me bonkers! Most of the
intermediate to advanced-level painters I know aren't concerned with
coverage so much since we're thinning the paint to attain a smooth
basecoat anyway (if you thin MSP 3:1 paint to water, you should be
able to achieve a smooth, even, nicely-covering basecoat in two
layers), so we went for adhesion over coverage.
3. When you're not using a vinyl base, coverage is very dependent on
pigmentation and the qualities of the pigments that you're using.
White, black, ochre and brown oxides cover; blue, green, red and
yellow not so much. Many companies are forced to add a bunch of
white, black, grey or ochre to their colors to attain coverage, but
this mutes the color substantially (you can see this in some VMC reds
and yellows, which have a lot of white, and in the muted tones of
some of the Reaper Pro Paints colors). We again tried to compromise
on this by loading up the pigment on many of the bright or intense
colors, and if we had to mute I tried to work in a brighter color in
the Clear Brights series later on in the line for those who wanted
the bright and didn't care about coverage, or so you could paint
normally with the muted but covering colors and then glaze with the
Clears to bring up the intensity. Just as an aside, you can kinda
tell how much pigment a paint has in it by how much it affects
another paint when you mix the two. If you add a drop of RMS Pure
White or VMC White to a GW color, you'll find it drastically affects
the mix, whereas adding GW Skull White to a VMC or RMS paint will
usually require a lot more white.
4. If anything, RMS are *over* pigmented (especially in the later
series where I actually knew what I was doing! ;D). We actually do
lose money on several of these paints! If you're noticing a lack of
coverage, it will be in the bright, intense hues where we chose not
to add a muting color. I keep full sets of GW, VMC, and VGC on hand
here at Reaper, and I compare coverage in like colors whenever
possible; I try to get as close as we can without the vinyl base.
5. Finally--if you have comments, complaints or questions about
MSP's, come to www.reapermini.com/forum and scroll down to the
Painting Tips forum. I hang out there, and if you put MSP in the
title or subtitle I'll see it! I would love to take feedback and
address your concerns. We also have an equivalency chart posted
in that forum for GW to MSP conversions.
Anyhoo, thanks for letting me rant, guys--please do give us feedback
in the forum over at Reaper, I read it all and I do actually make
adjustments in response to what our customers say. We're always
working to improve the line!
Reaper Miniatures, Lead Staff Painter, Paint Line Designer"
I'm just going to use GW paints, I know they work, and these ones are causing me too much work.
I hope people are having fun.
That's frustrating to have paint rub off--I use Reaper paints and GW inks. I've never had a problem with Reapers before, did you let them dry? They do take a little bit longer than GW.
I like Reaper because you can thin it down a lot with water and it still doesn't get blotchy. After priming, I'll usually use three watered down layers for the base coat.
Last edited by TheManichaean; November 8th, 2005 at 15:56.
Your logic is insane and happenstance.
This is more of a 'how they are to use' review and less technical on the why part of the paint. To start off, let me say that every paint has its own characteristics. Even within the same line, there may be varying qualities among colors. Additionally, since we are talking about artistic values, each person’s opinion is personal preference. That being said, what follows is my opinion about Reaper Miniatures Pro-Paint line.
I have been modeling and painting for many years. Initially I started with oil-based paints, Humbrol and Testors being two that I used often. When the acrylics started coming on the market I still stuck to enamels. Now, however, I use almost exclusively acrylics. I have a lot of painting time with GW, Partha Paints, craft acrylics such as Apple Barrel, and most of the older acrylics such as Armory.
When reviewing a line of paint, I take into account two areas, the container and the paint. If anyone thinks the container doesn’t have an impact on the overall quality of a paint line, they need only listen to the feedback about the older version of Games Workshop (GW) paint pots.
Starting with the container, Pro-Paints are high up the scale of good containers, but did not quite make it to the top. The jars are plastic with a screw top. While there is no problem with them jamming or paint drying out rapidly, they still let in a little air and the threads do accumulate some paint after a time. Initially, I had a few containers of paint develop skins on top of the paint after the first opening. This leads me to believe that if not used often, the paint could dry out. I have not experienced this for two reasons. First, I paint often and keep my paints very thin, so none of my pro paints have had time to sit around. Second, I store my paints upside-down. It is easier to spot the color I want and keeps the lid sealed. A feature I really like is a small skull inside each container. They serve as a mixer ball for the paint, and a scenery bit when I’m done.
Now for the paint. I like the paint, but it is different than what you may be used to and will take some experimentation to fully exploit. The paint is quite thick in the pot, and most colors are somewhat translucent. Less pigment to medium ratio. Before I use them, I thin the paints with ¼ bottle of Pro-Paint Ink Extender and top off the paint bottle with water. I use the ink extender so I can have the bottle to put GW paint in. I also add 20 drops of concentrated flow enhancer, purchased at a local acrylic paint store (Michaels in the US). This gives me a very smooth flowing paint. I still thin most of the colors when I use them, though. Coverage has been good for me, however, I prime white so it is easy to cover. I also plan my painting so I never have to try and cover a dark paint with a lighter color.
Their metallic colors have been somewhat different. I like my metallics to have very strong coverage, and a smooth metal look to them. Pro-Paint goes on smooth but the coverage is a little too translucent. The one exception to this is the Gun Metal. It’s a medium dark grey metallic with a slight blue tint to it. I really like this color. I have a second pot that I darkened with black ink for shading. On the other hand, the Bulkhead Steel has the largest metallic flakes I’ve seen in non-flake paint. It has big bits of silver in a dark grey medium. If you know this in advance, you can have a lot of fun with the paint. I use it for all kinds of metal details. But if you expected a homogenous color you won’t get it. They also have a good selection of other metallic colors, red, green, blue, etc. Again I find them too translucent. I do use them, but most often as a metallic glaze. It gives a slight metallic sheen to base colors. They are very good for doing satin cloth effects on robes, dresses, and expensive garments.
Their inks also suffer from the comparatively thick medium and translucent color characteristics. In this case, that’s a bad thing. If you thin the inks down so they flow easily, they have very weak color. This is not normally the effect desired in inks, but works well as a glaze or thin wash. Also, their ink colors are way off from what you expect from the name. While it could be argued that Chocolate Brown is a subjective name, there is a certain expectation of color from the name. Having used many lines of paint, I have never been so surprised by the actual color after reading the name. Once you know what the color actually looks like it’s not a problem, but don’t expect Pro-Paint ‘flesh wash’ to be anything close to GW flesh wash.
Overall I would rate Pro-Paints high for their containers, but only above average for their paints. An experienced painter, or someone with a lot of paints, who is looking for a variety of paint characteristics to use for special effects may find Pro-Paints more useful than a starting painter. If I had to choose between Pro-Paint and GW, I would choose Pro-Paint for colors not in the GW line, but GW paint when both colors were the same, and GW inks. In every case possible, I would put the GW paint in Pro-Paint bottles.
I believe the new reaper pro paints are in dropper bottles similar to the vallejo paints.