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I figure its more appropriate here than conversion. So you good modellers out there who do pinning a few questions -
1) Where did you get your hand drill? Can you point me to a place online I could get my hands on one and pins?
2) What bonding agent do you use for metal/metal and metal/plastic? I have tried epoxy and its great but I cant get it to stay in position long enough by holding (15 minutes a joint just hurts). The other thing I did was super glue + Kicker but that makes for weaker bonds. So, any suggestions?
3) Do you guys use the mini vices to hold up your models while gluing?
I am doing Tyranids and the gluing is driving me insane. Thanks in advance!!!
I don't do this, but your best hand drill/multi-tool would be a cordless dremel, you can pick it up at most hardware stores, as well as picking up some of the really really usefull stuff, like the cutting blades, and sanders for conversions, and stuff like their buffers for giving your mini's an extra shiny coat.
Also your best bet for a quick and firm hold, get some 5 minute binary epoxy with a 15 minute workable and 1 hour full bonding time, I'd suggest looking at some websites that deal with bonding strength, since different brands give you different results.
Some I have seen get a score of 1, which is a bit better than stick-glue for children, and some get a 10, which is about as good as arc welding it together (In other words, you'll need a pickaxe to get those baby's apart.
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Ok here's my advice to you...
When gluing, give a f*** about epoxy glue, it simply takes to long.
Personally I can't say anything about gluing plastic to metal since I only use superglue myself for everything.
About pinning and handdrills.
Get a pinvice from GW, or just get your hands on a dremel multitool, it's not a waste of money since there is so much else you can use it for.
I use super glue I've tried araldite (a two part epoxy resin) but it doesn't grip very well at all and take far to long.
As for vices, I don't use them, they scratch the fragile metal surface of the model, I simply find a way of balancing the model so that the part being glued can dry without extraneuos pressures being applied. This method has worked for my Necron models (wraithes are evil to glue!!. If the part being glued is dangling i find something to rest it uponwhilst keeping it attached to the rest of the model.
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You can find a pin vice(hand drill) at your local hobby store, if they don't have them chances are they will know where you can find one. Epoxy sucks, don't use it.
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Never at all use two component epoxy... it takes to long and isn't exactly good enough.
On plastic I say use polycement, it holds better than superglue.
Yes it takes longer to prime, but it holds better as the glue literally melts the plastic together.
1.) GW sells a hand drill, works really good, comes with extra bits, and is relativly cheap.
2.) GW Superglue works perfectly for metal on metal, but plastic on metal you'll have to hold it (or lean it up against something) for a good 30 minutes, then give it some hardening time.
3.) No, I just find a way to lean it against something. There isn't a clamp small enough, and when there is, it is too strong and doesn't hold well.
Hope this helped!
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>another annoying thing i hate: 47,000 similies in one post. just thoght id throw that in there and see if anybody else hates it as much as i do.</div>
I saw that you're doing Tyranids and having finished assembly relatively recently on my own big bugs, I can probably offer a few tips. First, the fit on models like the Hive Tyrant is awful. For several joints (waist and wings) I used the green stuff(hereafter GS) to to "fill" the gap, then disassembled the model to let the GS cure. Once the GS had hardened, I superglued everything together. You will absolutely need to pin every joint, and in hindsight, I wish I had double pinned some of them.
For the Carnifex, use GS to stick the two halves of the main shell together. If you have any sculpting skill at all (and I mean, can you make stick figures out of play-doh?) take a toothpick to make the GS continue the lines of the carapace to the other segment. It'll make it look like one solid piece, rather than two. I recommend double pinning the carapace to the pelvic section, and make sure you drill sufficiently deeply for pinning the pelvis to the legs. You can probably get away with a single pin for the head to carapace join, but I doubled mine. Unfortunately, the mandibles are too thin to pin. but they stay relatively well with a good superglue joining. Also, pin the Carnifex to his base. Drill holes into the soles of his feet, pin in short pins (3-4mm past the sole of the foot). Dip these in paint and touch them to the plastic base. Drill through where the paint dots are. Superglue the pegs into the base, then take your clippers to the underside and trim off any excess.
I use two different drills for my work. One is a hobby pin vise (hand twirled) that I got from a local hobby store. The other is a multi-speed Dremel tool that I got for Christmas one year, but it likely came from the local DIY store. The pin vise is used on plastic parts such as arms. The Dremel is used to drill into metal parts and through the GW plastic bases when I need to.
TIP: Keep a bar of soap handy on your workbench. Plunge the spinning Dremel bit into it every so often. This helps to keep the bit lubricated and it won't be as likely to sieze up on you. Don't be afraid to stop progress on a hole and lube the bit with soap.
Finding a place to lean a model correctly can be bothersome. Luckily for me my computer monitor was just the right height to support my tyrant's wings while everything dried. I am considering getting a "proper" set of clamps and supports, though.
Finally, as far as superglue taking too long to cure, you can use an accelerant for it. Most serious hobby stores sell accelerant in a spray bottle right next to the Zap-A-Gap brand of CA glue. At least, that's where I see it at my local hobby store. Myself, I accelerate superglue curing by dipping a spare finger into my brush water and then letting a drop fall onto the join. Accelerates the curing by a lot, and doesn't cost a cent.
Hopefully all this helps you out a bit.