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Anybody got any tips of modelling trench coats? I plan to extend the shirt on the cadian officer model.
Very carefully. Its gonna depend on the paint job to make it streamline (smooth and undisturbed).
the guy 2nd from the right
see if you can get one of these models from any empire player you know this is a great basis for the trench coat look.
WARMASTER of the SCHOLA PROGENIUM Alnwick Chapter (soon to be the world)
That Empire body's cloak only covers the sides so you'll have to build up the back but it's a good place to start.
In my limited Green Stuffing experience i've found that doing capes, coats, robes, etc. in sections helps to keep it from sagging as it dries but you'll need to blend each section in well or it'll look weird and if the coat is going to be static (as in, just straight by his sides and not swishing around) you may as well just do it in one peice.
They shall be my Imperial Guard and they shall know some fear...
The brettonian men at arms figures work well for trenchcoated figures with a little bit of work you can really get rid of the medeival style and just make them look like trenchcoats. Keep in mind however that those models already have the top part of the arms modelled i.e. from the shoulder to the elbow and that the neck is a flat surface you glue the heads on to.
Get in contact with BobaHat and his Ultimate Imperial Guard Conversion Guide. I am sure he can help you a lot!
there are laods of tips, depends what standard you are at, but:
keep hands and tool wet or use petrolium jelly,
let the GS dry for half an hour or so to make it more "Bidable" before working with it (experimentation will let you find out exactly how long)
In order to get a flat piece of cloth, on a flat surface, coat a piece of backing paper with oi (me I use cooking oil), place the geen stuff in the middle, fold the paper in half and use a roller flatten it, you then have a sandwich of GS between 2 layers of baking paper, let it cure for about an hour, cut to the size and shape you want, the bakign paper should peel off easily (that is the point of the oil) then fix the GS in place and shape folds.
If you have used oils or Petrolium jelly or just handeld it a lot, wash it whn it is completely dry with soapy water
remember - GS can be sanded
GS will tend to congeal slightly when drying, it means straight edges are difficutl to maintain, for solid objects, milliput extra fine is better, GS is better for organic, for a great coat I would be tempted to mix teh two up together in about 50:50 ratio
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