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Is this possible? I mean, my marines and nids all seem so boring, and I was wondering if there was some way to edit the poses without actually cutting and regluing the pieces.
yeah you can, by heating them wiith a hairdryer, you should be able to bend the bits around, try it on the sprues first to get the hang of it.
I use a heat gun, similar to a hairdryer but more heat.. you have to be very careful. honestly I worked on a conversion last night with a SM reloading. cutting filing and gluing is pretty much the norm.
Take your time, this hobby will last a lifetime so if you want a distinctive and killer looking army you have to eventually cut some of that expensive plastic, get yourself some "green stuff" to fill and smooth gaps and such and you'll be set... its really sad when I look at my dark angels army and see like 5 marines in the "default" poses without some degree of conversion out of a 2000 point force.
Well, that's one of the reasons I took up WH40k, I'm a student sculptor and I figured it would be good practice. :3 Figured I would get fantasy orks and 40 k orks and make some medieval orks with guns. XD
Where can I get this "green stuff"? Must I use Citadel's green stuff or will regular epoxy do? And when bending, do you glue all the bits together first, or bend then glue?
Last edited by Swordy; January 12th, 2006 at 17:15.
well green stuff is sold by GW but its expensive, I personally use "kneadtite" which you can locate fairly easily (ebay its pretty cheap) honestly if given a choice, I will cut and resculpt with green stuff befor I do too much bending.. bending just sometimes tend to either get too thin or just throw proportions all off. if you do bend, if its thin like an arm or something I use a heat gun propped up on a worktable with 2 sets of rubber coated tweezers (so you dont get too marred up) careful not to set your house on fire. generally I dont have a specific order as far as gluing first or bending first, just depends on how the model is, more often then not I will bend all my components into shape after I test-fit them with poster putty (the blue stuff for sticking posters to walls) then I scrape it off, bend test-fit again until I get it right. the only time restrictions you have are the ones you put on yourself, if you are not afraid to take your time, and work carefully generally you can stop mistakes before they happen.
I remember somewhere I read about using hot water, would that work?
How different is green stuff and kneadite from regular epoxy anyway?
Hot water works, I reccomend just using the individual pieces you are bending, and use insulated gloves, dont just leave them in the water either, they can become WAY too soft. use almost boiling water, and just hold them in the water until you can gently bend them into place, then remove them and let them cool on a paper towel.
When I first started using epoxy putty I used standard epoxy putty. Bad idea, standard stuff dries way too fast, you have no working time really. plus its hellishly toxic. I mean smell the stuff, you really want to get that stuff all over your fingers? the green stuff is great, first off you can tell when its mixed right, it should be... green. standard stuff is just a uniform grey.
working with it comes easy to some and is impossible for others. if you want to make swords, guns or other extended bits it behooves you to use an armature of some kind to help it keep its shape. Work out the major design while is still eaily moldable, sculpting tools are invaluble for this, I personally use a huge selection of dental picks, great for that type of work. after the major shape and design elements are in place, wait a while for the putty to firm, then add texture with your tools, it adds a bit of resistance for you to be able to work with it a bit more. then let it dry overnight. sand and file to your hearts content. if you make little detail pieces such as purity seals and such work on a piece of ceramic tile LIGHTLY greased with like cooking spray or similar so it doesnt dry to it. once its dry you can use super glue or the like to bond it to itself and such. It dries faster then overnight but once I get a pretty close to final piece I just let it cure overnight just to insure it stays in place. you also want to keep in mind its still a bit flexible and springy when its fully dried.
feel free to ask whatever else, I'm trapped at work away from my obsession anyways
Awesome. Alright, since you are willing...
What conversions would you suggest for basic marines? I mean, they seem so... stiff.
Look at the WDs with the kill teams. There is alot of great conversions in there with really dynamic poses. Also the dark Crusade section of GW site. (I think the Dark Crusade is North America Only but not entirely sure)
If you told me what country you live in I could give you a number.
You could also just kinda play with them and make one look cool without bending or GS and using only the bitz from the box.
Here is a link to the Dark Crusade thing:
Last edited by Catachan Devil; January 13th, 2006 at 03:24.
Well I dunno I'm mainly of the opinion that I want to put something completely unique on the table. sure I have "conversions" by adding various bits from sprues and stuff, I just enjoy hacking them up a bit to get some pretty unique poses as well.
Swordy: space marines are a pretty easy deal, bending doesnt work too well for them, but sectioning a marine can put him in any pose you want, provided its not the marine model with the arms molded into the sides, that one is just a bit too annoying to work on. I was actually working on a standard marine troop last night, Personally I try to get the pose a bit more "freeze frame" get a bit more depth to the scene. a couple things I do frequently: Marines reloading, kneeling marines, scouts in the prone position, marines shielding their eyes from the sun etc.
Basically just look at the model and think of things he would potentially be doing in the heat of combat, whether taking cover from incoming rounds or readying a grenade for an assault, then develop a plan of where you want his various limbs to be and what he is holding. If you have the benefits of a huge bitz box it comes in very handy, if not.. hey you are trying to be a sculptor so sculpt some accessories! If you have the benefits of a good hobby shop in your area, go get lost there for a while or michael's crafts if you are in the US. Sometimes a cool idea strikes you in the presence of raw materials... anyhow if you want to do a good job sectioning that marine and you end up spending hours with an exacto knife and dont want to stress through that again its time to step up and get yourself a miter box and a razor saw, will make it a breeze to make perfect, straight cuts everytime.
now, depending on what you are doing and how comfortable you are with green stuff is how you reassemble things. if you find you suck with it, just use the existing plastic and a carving tool and "trim it into position" just by using the plastic he is molded with. a lot of times this is too much work for me so I just determine the pose, trim off the areas I dont want and use a pin vise and sturdy wire to hold his limbs into place then fill in the gaps with green stuff, as a tip: those marine shoulderpads, cover a multitude of sins. you can also trim off the plastic kneepads and glue them back on once you pose and putty the knees. Dont neglect your bases either, either take the time to determine a coherant base for your army beforehand, or wait until you are done with a good section and base them all in a logical way. makes your army look that much better. Ash and dirt and rubble fit almost any piece of terrain you may come across and if your base is mainly dark it should look good.