SM Transfers are annoying me. - Warhammer 40K Fantasy
 

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  1. #1
    Member Crimsonfist Guy's Avatar
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    SM Transfers are annoying me.

    I know i probably shouldnt post it here but i know you guys always reply with usefull info.. I need some tips on using them i play crimson fists(duh) and tha transfers are huge and they never end up like the picture or instructions CAN SOMEONE HELP ME!!!!!!!

    AM I THE ONLY NERD WHO PLAYS FOOTBALL!!!!!!

    40k= Crimson Fists, Kroot Mercenaries, Harkoni Helldivers
    Blood Bowl= Orks, Humans, Ogres, Lizardmen



    Go to www.mcsmstudios.com for a hearty laugh

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  3. #2
    LO Zealot XenomarinesKiller's Avatar
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    i havre heard of people using microsol, or something, or failing that, try to paint them freehand. that is pretty much all i can think of. sorry if that doesn't help.


    Remember, if someone helps you with anything, REP THEM!


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  4. #3
    Son of LO
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    Yes, you're quite right that you shouldn't have posted it here.

    However, I'll move it for ya, lol.

    Firedrake

  5. #4
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    You could buy the moulded shoulder pads from GW online - then you can just paint the fists on the pads

  6. #5
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    mark out your design on the pad with a pencil and freehand it on. I've never been keen on transfers. The imaculately clean lines of a transfer always look odd to me on a hand painted model. Like chalk and cheese.

  7. #6
    Senior Member rovens's Avatar
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    Plus the carrier film causes massive problems when you put the symbols on shoulder pads (at least it does with blood angels symbols as they are wide), my advice is to trim the carrier fiolm away as much as is possible.

  8. #7
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    If you're going to go with the transfers (and I'd recommend free hand), then trim them as much as possible. This will minimise wrinkling and such, but remember you are applying this to a curved shoulder pad, so getting it to lay 100% flat may not be possible if transfer is large.

  9. #8
    Member Caduceus's Avatar
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    Here's a good tutorial, from brushthralls which illustrates the point of using the base color to make it possible to add points and curves and such.

    http://www.brushthralls.com/Symbols/index.php

  10. #9
    Thread Killer! slorak's Avatar
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    Here is how I do decals. It has worked very well for me:

    first I put down a layer of gloss varnish covering the area around the decal.

    Next I apply the decal and instead of using water on the brush to help smooth it I use both Micro-Sol and then after it starts taking form I continue brushing on micro-set. I usually apply decals in groups of figures so I will apply one and start brushing with the micro-sol - then move on to the next and then after I have done a few I will go back and continue to smooth the decal down.

    The micro-sol and micro-set do a pretty decent job of getting the decal to form fit the area. It isn't perfect however so after the decal is dry I will go back with a sharp x-acto knife and carefully scrape the raised areas of the decal off. Usually this is just clear areas of the decal so there are no problems. Occasionally it will be part of the design. If so you may need to do a minor touchup with paint or if you like a worn faded look leave it be. Another trick you could use to help the decal sit better on the shoulderpad is to cut one side of the decal.

    Afterwards if you like you can put another coat of gloss varnish over the decal. I usually do this. This helps even out the decal if there are any left over raised areas as well as cutting down the "silvering" effect on the edges of the decals.

    Hit it with some dullcote when dry and it should blend in very nice. It may appear to be a labor intensive process due to a lot of steps but really it isn't all that hard. Do a few and you will get the hang of it!

    Cheers,

    -Mike

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  11. #10
    LO Zealot The Fifth Horseman's Avatar
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    Just go freehand, it takes more time but gives nicer results.

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