Welcome to Librarium Online!
Join our community of 80,000+ members and take part in the number one resource for Warhammer and Warhammer 40K discussion!
Registering gives you full access to take part in discussions, upload pictures, contact other members and search everything!
I would like to do a Storm Giants space marine force, and supposedly their base color is rotting flesh. My question is, what do I do for a base before I paint on the rotting flesh? it should be darker for shading purposes, but I'm not sure what to mix or what other color to use.
What about camoflage green?
I've used it on ACTUAL undead as a base color for rotting flesh and I've been quite happy with it.
The key is to do VERY thin layers of rotting flesh and fully cover the camoflage green for the first couple coats. This gives the first layers of R.Flesh a darker appearance... almost like it is shading itself.
camo green is a good choice. If you want an even stronger contrast I would suggest starting with Cayman Green (vallejo game color) not sure what the equivalent GW paint is but I am sure it has a very similar name!
So I undercoat white, base coat with camo green, then build up the rotting flesh, leaving camo green to show through for shading in the crevaces?
I'm not a very patient painter, I hate doing more than a couple of coats. Is there maybe a simpler way? It may not look pro, but if it's tabletop effective, I'll consider it....
Like, what about a thin wash of camo green as a base coat? Then it might only take one coat of rotting flesh?
I guess it boils down to how you want it to turn out vs. how much time you want to invest into it. Of course the more layers you do (thin layers) the smoother the transition will be and the better overall it will appear.
If you are looking for a quick average method I would base with camo, wash with green ink (maybe green mixed with a little brown or black for a deeper color) to shade the recessess, and then pick out your highlight spots with rotting flesh.
For a smoother transition I would start with a darker olive green, layer it with camo, and finally rotting flesh. More layers but a better overall look.
Remember though that you can kill any unwanted shine from ink by using Testor's Dullcote or an equivalent.
One of the few times since I've been on the site I can recall disagreeing with Slorak... Maybe the only so far.
I am whole heartedly againse EVER using inks with rotting flesh.
I have never EVER had a good result... and I have tried every reasonable combination I could think of.
Now, when I say "good," I mean that EVERY time I've tried it I've ended up painting over it. It wouldn't even hold up to reasonable table top standards. The pigmentation of the ink either (a) darkens the paint unreasonably or (b) darkens the shades unreasonably.
Ugly Ugly Ugly.
Looking for a quick fix? What would essentially be considered a basic paint job now days? My reference for "now days" being that, in the early days of the hobby, one color of paint on each area would have been basic, now you MUST have one layer of highlight and one shade, minimum.
1) Prime grey.
White primer will make the color too bright & black will probably require mulitple coats of paint to cover.
2) Mix Vallejo Game Color black to camo green at a 1:5 ratio (use a very TINY drop of water VERY VERY TINY... if you think it's not enough, it might STILL be too much -- seriously) to thin the paint. Coat everything you want to be green with this color.
3) Use straight camo green over that... leave base color in recesses, etc.
4) Highlight with a 1:5 (maybe 6 or 7... I'd have to mix it and compare) Vallejo Game Color white to camo green mix.
IMO, Vallejo comes out a little glossy looking, REGARDLESS of ink usage... I always use Testors Matte Clear Coat (Marketed as "Model Master"). I swear by it. it is the ONLY sealer I use. The official title of it is "Flat Lacquer" and it's number is 1960.
If you knew me better, you'd know how big a deal it is that I swear fealty to one specific product, regardless of price.
Last edited by MagickalMemories; September 8th, 2006 at 05:30.
You can always thin the inks with water so the pigmentation isn't so harsh. Remember I am talking about a quick 3 step method. It WILL produce very adequate table top standards. To me table top standard is nothing more than a clean error free paintjob. Even minimally shaded figures can look good on the table.
If you are having problems with the inks re-activating with the paint you can always seal the figure with the dullcote or other varnish before applying the rotting flesh.
You can also get a similar effect to priming grey by priming white and washing with thinned black ink.
There are obviously a multitude of different ways to get the job done. It really boils down to how much time vs. quality you want to spend.
Of the pictures i have seen of them they appear to be a very light rotting flesh. I would be tempted to go white do a base of 50 rotting/ 50 Camo. Use this as a base. Then highlight to rotting, and then do tip highlighitng with a Rotting/Bleach Bone mix. Till will allow the main color to be there but the highlights to take it away from the "to green" image.
Okay, been on vacation and recovering from the post-vacation inbox. But thanks for the inputs. I'm wondering if maybe the Storm Giants are actually a bone color instead of Rotting Flesh? I've never seen Rotting Flesh actually, only what it looks like in the bottle. Does it dry lighter or darker? I didn't think the SG pictures that I've seen in WD and on the GW website looked all that green.
If you look at the SM section on the GW website you can find a pic (look for the article on SM chapters--it has like 5-6 pages of sample color schemes). Does anyone think they're actually Bleached Bone and not Rotting Flesh?