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Thread: Priming Mishap

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    Junior Member Hideyoshi's Avatar
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    Priming Mishap

    Got a question...

    I primed a sprue of Boyz with some primer called Armoury (?) and it was awful. Everything looked like it was snowed on. I brushed off as much as I could but I still have a powdery base and my paint goes on chalky due to the excess powder stuff. If I clean up the sprue and then re-prime (with Citadel this time) do you think it will get be a better base to paint off of?


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    Thread Killer! slorak's Avatar
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    425 (x8)

    sounds like you primed to far away from the figures... Usually you want to be no more than 12 inches away. Otherwise paint dries before reaching the figures creating the "snow" effect.

    Also check the humidity/temperature requirements for the can.

    I haven't used armory primer before though so I can't vouche for their quality. I haven't had any real troubles with GW primer.

    Cheers,

    -Mike

    Now offering an affordable Tournament Legal Quality Commission pricing. Find out more here!

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    Quote Originally Posted by slorak View Post
    sounds like you primed to far away from the figures... Usually you want to be no more than 12 inches away. Otherwise paint dries before reaching the figures creating the "snow" effect.
    Thats why I thought also, so I sprayed a second sprue and this time took careful notice of my distance. It may have been the humidity.

    Will scrubbing these boyz down and re-priming with citadel primer work?

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    its happened to me with games workshops skull white once, it fudged up my hive tyrant pretty bad, as i couldnt get all that powdery crud off, i think its just a mistake by the producer, after shaking the can about 1k times it was alot better, as for the model, it was dead, i had to use paint stripper to get it all off, i then demanded games workshop reimburse me for the can and the tyrant, which they did.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hideyoshi View Post
    Thats why I thought also, so I sprayed a second sprue and this time took careful notice of my distance. It may have been the humidity.

    Will scrubbing these boyz down and re-priming with citadel primer work?

    castrol super clean may make your primer removal a bit easier

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    As mentioned above, castrol super clean is the most popular way to get paint off.

    While it's possible you have a bad batch, here are some key tips for using any primer.
    Shake shake shake, shake, swirl, shake.
    Repeat
    repeat
    repeat

    spray a little onto some scrap so you know it's flowing smoothly

    warm dry weather

    Think more 6-8 inches spraying distance. My previous can of primer, Armoury white, never gave me problems, but that was a pretty old can. My current primer is Armoury black.I like it very much, but I have oversprayed two sprues now. One was my first test sprue, the other i was careless i guess. I just scraped the excess spots off with a pin and painted on some Game colour white, and it worked out fine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nleavitt View Post
    As mentioned above, castrol super clean is the most popular way to get paint off.

    While it's possible you have a bad batch, here are some key tips for using any primer.
    Shake shake shake, shake, swirl, shake.
    Repeat
    repeat
    repeat

    spray a little onto some scrap so you know it's flowing smoothly

    warm dry weather

    Think more 6-8 inches spraying distance. My previous can of primer, Armoury white, never gave me problems, but that was a pretty old can. My current primer is Armoury black.I like it very much, but I have oversprayed two sprues now. One was my first test sprue, the other i was careless i guess. I just scraped the excess spots off with a pin and painted on some Game colour white, and it worked out fine.
    I don't think I'll use Armoury again. Last night I was sooo stoked to prime my nobz with a new can of Citadel Black. It didn't work either. I shook the can like a heroin addict going through withdrawl but no luck. It was like Black Ink Primer.

    I think I'm going to join the cult of clear primer and use Glass and Tile Medium. I'll let you know how that goes.

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    425 (x8)

    The glass and tile medium works great! As for the GW black spray... Just make sure the can says primer on it. They have 2 kinds - Chaos black (which is just a can of Chaos Black and not primer) and then they have the chaos black primer.

    With the glass and tile medium - make sure when you use it to mix it on the spot rather than pre-mixing a bottle of it. I was told that cutting it 50/50 with water is the way to go. Problem I found with pre-mixing is that eventually the ratio of mixture became very skewed when I reached the end of the bottle. Not very pleasing results - it caused a hazy crackling effect. If you put a few drops of ink into it you will get a nice tint on the figure that should showcase all of the details!

    Cheers,

    -Mike

    Now offering an affordable Tournament Legal Quality Commission pricing. Find out more here!

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    Personally, after primering a table full of resin terrain pieces, I have found that I prefer CAR PRIMER. It comes in various colors, it's about $2.50 a can, it is a SOLID coat, and it is FAR more forgiving in relation to distance & graininess.

    I was betwen 6 & 18 inches on these pieces & each one came out as smooth and nice as the next one.

    I tried it on a batch of assembled Macragge SM's.... Me likey.

    I'm sold on it!


    Eric
    Blue Table Painting
    --Miniatures painting service. High quality, good prices, and quick turnaround.
    www.bluetablepainting.com

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