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I'm pretty new at painting and modelling, but I really want to get my defiler ready for the table top. I can barely do marines... I prefer to make them look basic with black undercoating and chainmail trim. I spruce them up with pink eyes (slaanesh!) and red weaponry (blood red) with a bit of drybrushing... but nothing fancy by any means. Now, with my limited skillset I want to finally get this defiler assembled and ready for use while still looking good and I was hoping for some tips. I searched through the forums and looked at all the pictures and I can't really see any set color scheme... such as X plates should be painted this color to correspond with Y area... which I was kinda hoping for. Paint by number would really make my life easier...
At any rate, I was thinking of black undercoat and painting all of the legs and chassy in boltgun metal, while leaving the armor plates black. Then, highlighting in chainmail and coloring the tubing red. I'm not sure if this will look decent or not though and I'm scared to mess up my most expensive model. My other idea was just leaving the whole thing black and highlighting the edges chainmail, and painting the pistons and such boltgun metal... but that just doesn't seem flashy enough. Can anyone suggest any tips for painting this model? I'd like it to match my regular CSM but be more detailed and I have no idea where to start... I don't even know how you can blend colors to get good shading on a vehicle, or make cool patterns like with the "eavy metal models. This is quite the daunting task and any advice you could offer would surely save me a lot of time and trouble. Thanks!
What I did for mine was bas coated it with red (black for you) and trimmed the armor everywhere with yellow (boltgun metal for you)and painted the face black (grey for you?)
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Do you paint the trims on your marines? If so, then I'd recommend that you'd paint those on your defiler too. The trims on the armor plates I mean. As for the pistons and stuff, boltgun metal will work. The chassy, I'd paint that boltgun too. Highlighting with Chainmail will work, but maybe you should try an even brighter color. Mithril Silver and pick out just the highest edges.
As for tubings, painting those red will work. Although, a nice "detail" is to take the 2 tubings on a front arm (left or right), and paint the left tubing red, the right tubing green or so. And mirror that on the other side. All those small details on a big model make it really shine.
I think those legs and the bodypart are also a nice base to try newer techniques like inking. The body and legs are big parts, as opposed to "learn" inking on a small Marine. Thin down a black or brown in 1 part ink, 3 parts water and brush it, so it goes in the recesses. At least, it worked for me, and I'm not a pro painter either.
If you're worried you'll mess up defiler, just take your time. Don't rush, that's a common mistake I made a lot of times.
And a final tip I can give you, take a really good look at your model. Do you intend to paint pistons boltgun along with the cases in which they operate. Or would you paint them, for example the same color as the trims on the armor plates, to make em stand out even more.
Hope this helps a bit. I remember painting my defiler 2 months ago. I was just like you... "whoah... where to start?" but the first thing I did was take a really good look at the model and think, what's armor, what's mechanical stuff and lay basecoats from there off.
I'll see if I can make and post a picture about how mine turned out.
I would start by basically painting the Defiler the same way you paint your other models. About actual painting for starters I found it was much easier to paint my Defiler before I atatched the upperbody. Paint the legs and chassis and the upperbody seperate from one another.
You say you may paint the tubing red, I think it will look a little odd and stand out too much. Try painting the tubes with tin bitz. The give them a light drybrush with bronze. After that apply a brown ink wash, this will shade and blend the metalics. If you are not used to appling inks the best way to do it is to make sure you brush is only wet with ink but has no drops on it and isn't dripping.
If you are painting large areas in metallic colours then a little brown ink can also be used in these areas to make the metal more varied in it's colouration and more realistic. remember that metalic colours can corupt you inks easily so wash your brushes well and cheeck your inks afterwards to see if they are contaminated. I personally have inks for metallics and inks for other things.
You can have a good looking defilter with out painting every last little detail.
Here is an idea for what sounds like your paint scheme.
Base the whole thing in black. Paint some parts in boltgun like you said above, the legs and chest, or reverse it and do the armor plates in boltgun. Then dry brush brazen brass or dwarf bronze over all the area with the bolts and rivets sticking out, so to catch them with the dry brushing.
Paint the tubes red or blue or both. paint the weapons with the same color scheme you paint your marines weapons. Maybe paint the claws boltgun too, so they stand out from the black arms.
Drybrushing is the way to go.
If you intend to make the Defiler a centerpiece (why would you not?) it is well worth to take some time.
Like Leech said, paint before assembly.
I cannot stress this enough.
It is quite a big model with many many small details and oh so many "hard to reach"-places.
This is what I would recommend.
Assemble legs and torso, "spine"-bit separate, don't add the Reapers or Flamethrowers just yet.
Basecoat it all black.
Get out a big, flat, rather hard brush and gat some paint on it. Work the paint into the bristles by painting on something like a palette, a piece of paper or a box. Make sure it is dry so the paint doesn't come on all grainy.
Start to drybrush the pieces one at the time.
No need to be careful or very cautious about keeping the paint in the right place - it's of much more importance to get a thin and nice cover.
Patience is the key.
When you have drybrushed the Trims and the Metallic parts (claws etc) then you paint the flat areas. Use thinned paint and it will keep where it is supposed to be due to surface tension.
When this is finished you can paint the details like tubings etc.
The last step is to give it a wash of thinned down brown/black whipe clean edges and raised areas and pieces.
It is a great model to work with, and I wish you the best of luck.
Like Andusciassus said, dry brushing is a very quick way for covering large areas of a model. Also, rather than using metallic paints, you may want to try this mixture:
3 parts- dark gray (cant remember the name:
2 parts- chaos black
1.5 parts dark blue (cant remember the name)
2.5 parts dark brown (cant remember the name)
This produces a wonderfully rich dark gray that has brown undertones. The blue simply 'warms up' the gray. You can use the lighter grays for detail work. In my experience, it's much easier to make those sections of a model that are meant to look metallic when using non-metallic paints. If you have even the slightest disposition towards shading and detail then this produces a much more realistic finished product.
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If you want to make the claws stand out paint most metallic parts Tin Bitz (not claws). Then dry brush Boltgun Metal. For claws start with Chainmail and highlight Mithril Silver.
Just a suggestion- good luck!
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