Welcome to Librarium Online!
Join our community of 80,000+ members and take part in the number one resource for Warhammer and Warhammer 40K discussion!
Registering gives you full access to take part in discussions, upload pictures, contact other members and search everything!
I'm restoring a whirlwind (MK I) that was glued poorly and assembled wrong.
I've taken it apart and cleaned it up ready for reassembly.
Unfortunately the top and bottom shells slide back and forth. I'm unsure of the correct position.
It seems there needs to be a couple of lugs for where the dozer blade hooks in, and pair of lugs at the rear for something else. I've never built one of these before.
I also noticed looking at some pix on the net that the rear tailgate was was glued to the rear lugs and I think it was meant to be glued to shell just above the rear hatch.
I havent been successful finding any good comhprehensive pix of a correctly assembled whirlwind.
I've looked through the codex, Imperial Armour II and painting guide without success.
Anybody know of any whirlwind articles or pix to help me.
ps I was lucky enough to salvage some rare earth magnets that I thought I might use on the missile banks so I can adjust the angle and maybe make a soft hinge with cloth on the rear hatch and use another magnet to shut the hatch. :w00t: any thoughts on my mods ?
Essentially, you can't go wrong when assembling the uppoer and lower shell. You will have two massive rectangular holes on the top/bottom, and two parrallel, smaller rectangular holes fore and aft. The two 'lugs' that you see are located fore and aft as well. The two that are at the rear are of no value, nothing attaches there (cut them off it you like).
I'm assuming that you do know how to assemble the sides/track-gaurds. They are pretty straight-forward anyways. Same goes for the the round hatches or the radar post, they are the only round piece on the whole model.
Now you should have a single 3-d part that looks pyramid shaped and has a small slot in it. Nothing attaches to this slot. This piece attaches to either the rear of the vehicle (standare position) or the front of the tank (for an older, armored-crew-compartment look). Wherever this piece goes, the doors will be attached on the opposite side. When assembling the tank, remember that the front of the tank slopes up and back like a sports-car.
Obviously put the optional smoke-launchers where-ever you want, and glue the dozer prow on. I would actually advise agaisnt attaching a dozer prow to the tank for gaming reasons. The tank typically remains stationary and it's best to conserve the points.
Last, you've got the head-lights, tail-lights, and an ammo box. The tail-lights are glued to the rear of the vehicle on the the flat area BEHIND the lugs (note that it is not glued directly to the lugs, but on the flat area of the chassis just behind them- like the dozer prow) the headlights are short, self explainatory triangular prisms. They attach to the front of the track-gaurds, glued so that they form a ninety-degree angle with the ground along their front face. The ammo box can be placed wherever you like, for detail.
As for using magnets on the doors and rockets: I'd definetly use them on the rockets, however they are useless on the doors, since it's really just a waste of effort to model doors that no commander would ever open for any good reason. This tank is not a transport!
The only other advise that I have to give is that instead of gluing the closed hatches to the bottom of the tank to fill that massive hole, you keep them and put them on the top whenever you want to use a rhino instead of the whirlwind.
Hope that helped
Thank you for your assistance.
I understand all you said, however I assembled the top+bottom shells but there seems such a large gap between the lugs at the front and the front of the shell.
I thought that the dozer blade would fit snug between the lugs and and front wall but the gap is about 7mm and the dozer frame thickness is about 2mm, so there will be an open gap. Is this how its meant to be? Just toying with it as I write this, and I see that if I slide the shells apart to close said gap, then an openeing appears at the back/top.
So I might be answering my own question here. I guess I wanted to get rid of the gap because it(dozer) was all bend up originally and didnt seem strong enough and I thought that if I closed it, would make more sense and be stronger(rigid). Does that make sense.
A pic would sure help eh ?
As you suggest, I will use my re mags sparingly just for the missile banks.
I still want to hinge the rear door but will try and save that mod for the razorback, agreed? I will leave the missile turntable lose to avoid transport damage.
I noticed that these kits are so modular, and see what you mean by quick conversions from whirly to rhino to razor to predator ??? etc.
Being a restoration not all parts can be "unglued" without destruction, so I cant make this vehicle THAT interchangeable.
I'm getting a megaforce for xmas, and will have fun with those new kits. Better place a bulk order for mags.
btw, my part ner collects dolls, her reject baby pacifiers come with re magnets to stick to the face. Saguinus would roll-over in is stasis tomb knowing that his imperial vehicles are being held together with mere childs toys - reject parts even ... blasphemy!!!!!
There is meant to be distance between those mounts, and like i said, the dozer prow is a waste of time. But if you want to attach it, it is glued to the chasis, and there will be a gap. I have seen it glued to the front of the lugs, but those people usually have alot of patience with damaged tanks. If it bothers you, either:
1. put a thin bit of sprue behind the prow to move it close to the lugs (like a chasis extension)
2. use the lugs for a conversion (mount skulls or honor tags on them)
3. cut them off. "...really, would you miss it? would ya?"
'Austin-Powers: The Spy Who Shagged Me'
So, happy I could help, and I'm sorry that I'm too dense to figure out how to get pics onto my computer and then into posts.
Thanks again, your input has helped me both learn and understand model options.:yes:
I glued the shells last night - committed.
Just cleaning it up now, removing old glue, lumpy paint etc ...
As you suggested, have removed prow since whirlies are not likelt to be frontline anyway. I am however,but still considering the possibility opening rear door as I might attempt to make this a flexible whirlwind/rhino design.
The Rhino has 2 fire points I believe and my model has a couple a slit pieces on the front.
Erm, are you talking about the doors. They would look like rectangles, raised from the chassis. They've got rivtes (I think) and two window slits with raised rims.
Your fire-points are up top, the two round hatches. If you want, you can open one of the hatched and stick a marine's upper body through it, but this makes the tank look really disproportionate.