Magnets in Tau Hammerhead - Warhammer 40K Fantasy
 

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  1. #1
    Ayatollah Moomintroll Hard A**'s Avatar
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    293 (x5)

    Magnets in Tau Hammerhead

    This is a simple description of how I recently put small rare-earth magents into my Tau Hammerheads so that the main armament could be swapped over - from Ion Cannon to Railgun.

    Tools required:

    - 3mm Rare Earth magnets - I got these online for about 15p each. I chose 3mm as their magnetic influence would be relatively local, and with larger ones I was worried that they might disrupt electronic equipment or 'grab' nearby steel components.

    - a 3mm 'wood drill' - as seen in the photo it is ideal for boring stright into soft materials such as plastic.

    - Greenstuff (or Milliput - some kind of setting expoxy resin anyway)

    - Superglue.



    This should be more-or-less self-explanatory if you study the picture.

    1. Drill into the top of the pivot and glue a magnet into it, as flush as you can manage.

    2. Mix up some Greenstuff, and push it into the 'pivot hole' on the weapon. Try and get as near the opening as possible. Try not to get it into the U-shaped recess for the pivot axle (seen on the picture just above the light magnet buried in the greenstuff). The rest of the instructions should be done while the Greenstuff is still soft.

    3. This is the (mildly) cunning part. The transparent plastic film that the greenstuff comes in - cut a strip maybe 8 mm wide. We are gonna use this as a 'release' system to stop the greenstuff gluing itself to the pivot mount. Put the strip over the pivot mount, and put the second magnet onto its counterpart that is glued into the pivot mount. The long axis of the film strip should be aligned with the long axis of the pivot mount.

    4. Push the weapon down onto the mount. The 'weapon' magnet should sink into and become attached into the Greenstuff inside the weapon. Surplus Greenstuff will be pushed sideways into the empty space inside the weapon.

    What you should be left with is a recess cast in Greenstuff within the weapon (as seen in the photo). The Greenstuff however will not have glued itself to the top of the pivot mount, because of the non-stick properties of the film strip - which you can see in the photo. This can easily and harmlessly be pulled off the Greenstuff once it has set.


    Ryan Dancey, Vice President of Wizards of the Coast, believed that TSR failed because of "...a near total inability to listen to its customers, hear what they were saying, and make changes to make those customers happy." Are you listening, Games Workshop ?

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  3. #2
    Ancient Spacefarer Kai-Itza's Avatar
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    211 (x6)

    the size of the magnets are pretty small, are they powerful enough to stay attracted?

    good report on how to install magnets on a hammerhead well done (Y)

    though i'll stick to pinning them with brass or metal rods, makes the whole deal a lot cheaper to implement! i might try out magnets one day...

    -Kai-Itza-

  4. #3
    Paintwater cup != tea mug catbarf's Avatar
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    Magnets are wonderful. Great job, although I'd recommend another downward-facing magnet somewhere for stability. Also, you get better results if you drill holes for the magnets to go in, and have the turret parts flush against the gun parts.
    If you think Mathammer doesn't work and dice cannot be predicted, there's a whole field of mathematics called probability that would like to disagree.

  5. #4
    Ayatollah Moomintroll Hard A**'s Avatar
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    293 (x5)

    The turret magnet IS flush against the weapon magnet, because when I squashed the turret and gun together the magnets were already 'mated' - and the pressure of the Greenstuff in the weapon pushed its magnet up against its partner in the turret mount.

    The only improvement I would make now is to square off both the pivot axle and its recess grooves on either side, to stop the Railguns from pitching forward slightly.

    Yes the magnets are small, I bought them mainly to attach Crisis suit weapons. These 3mm magnets are not sufficient to support the weight of the vehicle by the weapon, for example. But I had reasons for not wanting anything mucjh bigger, although the same methodology would work for 4mm or 5mm magnets.

    Expense doesn't really figure, the magnets are about 15p / 30 US cents each.

    Apart from the slight pitching forwards of the Railguns (which I could also correct by putting a lead counterweight behind the Railguns pivot) it works fine.




    Last edited by Hard A**; March 29th, 2007 at 15:12.
    Ryan Dancey, Vice President of Wizards of the Coast, believed that TSR failed because of "...a near total inability to listen to its customers, hear what they were saying, and make changes to make those customers happy." Are you listening, Games Workshop ?

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    What size magnet would you suggest for applying this technique to battlesuites, or even better how about a tutorial for doing it.

  7. #6
    Ayatollah Moomintroll Hard A**'s Avatar
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    293 (x5)

    I'd still go with 3mm, but there are further problems with battlesuit weapons.

    Mainly you have to find a way of keeping the weapon pointed forward, so it cannot pivot around its magnetic attachment.

    As it happens I have more than enough battlesuits to provide all the weapon fits I need for the moment, but I may just experiment with the idea of magnetic attached weapons anyway.

    Ryan Dancey, Vice President of Wizards of the Coast, believed that TSR failed because of "...a near total inability to listen to its customers, hear what they were saying, and make changes to make those customers happy." Are you listening, Games Workshop ?

  8. #7
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    21 (x1)

    For crissisuits and stealthsuits i use 1.5 mm ( 1/16") lenght 1.5 mm magnet rods with good success.

    You have to be carefull with the orientation, but if that's settled correctly, the 2 magnets that are put into the mounts make that the weapons can not rotate anymore.

    This is how i work. i start with 1 suit. this will be the 'mastermold' as i call it.

    in the arms are small recesses where usually the weapons fit into. same for the shoulders.
    Start with drilling 2 1.5 mm diameter holes in it right next to eachother. the space there is big enough to house them.

    On the weapon clip of the protruding piece that otherwise fits into the arm and drill again 2 holes in it.

    MAJOR point of attention: try to leave the same amount of space between the 2 holes as you did on the arm or the shoulder. the looks depend greatly on how well alligned you can drill the holes, otherwise it will be aiming a bit of)

    next is the important step.

    take a small selection of the magnets stacked on top of eachother, bend the stack over so you get 2 rows next to eachother on which the polarity is inverted.

    nz-nz-nz-nz-nz
    zn-zn-zn-zn-zn

    add a bit of superglue on the top most 2 and press them into the drilled holes of either the weapon or the arm till they are flush with the surface.

    remove the rest of the stack by moving them across the surface, not perpendular to the surface otherwise you risk pulling the magnets out again.

    Let it cure for a bit.

    Next place 2 magnets on those (they'll sort out the orientation themselves) and press the other component onto it so the magnets get into the drilled holes and become flush again with the surface.

    You now have a mount that has unique properties as it will not let the weapon rotate and if done correctly is nearly invisible.

    Best weapons to start with are the missile pod or burst cannon as they have only one mounting point ( small plastic clip mentioned before).

    Take the weapon you have prepared, place 2 magnets and glue on it and repeat it to every other mounting point.

    With care, you have a swappable configuration now which will prevent rotation and most weapons will be posable on most points.
    repeat with the other weapons and suits, whereas you use the 'mastermold' to outfit every other suit.

    That way your weapons can be used with every suit without fear for getting the wrong polarity.

    if you plan ahead, and prepare some weapons, like the fusion gun plasma and flamer as a mirror image of an other, thus fitting the magnets at the opposite side, you can make good looking twinlinked suits without the odd looking orientation of some weapons.

    the only con in this preparation is the amount of magnets you need.

    for 1 suit you would need 22 magnets ( as we used magnets in both the weapon and the arm) for a suit that will not have every twin linked combo possible. you go to 32 for every twinlinked option possible.

    Given the cheap price of the magnets it's not that difficult to get hold of enough.

    Some background info:

    One 1.5 diameter rod magnet 1.5 mm long (assuming we are talking about rare earth magnets) can hold about 150 grams of mild steel.

    2 thus 300
    4 thus 600.

    I guess this will be more then enouigh for the weapons.

    Heck i can even lift one suit with it when i grab the weapon.

    one other sidenote: i have used a 3 mm magnet in the top of my dread for mounting switchable options like the smoke launcher and everytime someone touches it with their rulers, they lift him from the surface.
    MvG, vindicator.

  9. #8
    Paintwater cup != tea mug catbarf's Avatar
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    I use 3mm magnets on Carnifexes, and by drilling into the socket to place one magnet and drilling into the arm for the other (so the arm is flush against the socket) it can keep the arms up. You'd have no trouble with a Crisis suit. What I meant by keeping them flush was not to make magnets flush against each other, but setting the magnets in the 'walls' of the pieces, so both the magnets and the pieces themselves are flush.
    If you think Mathammer doesn't work and dice cannot be predicted, there's a whole field of mathematics called probability that would like to disagree.

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