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At long last, I have decided on a scheme for my Eldar... at least, 'decided' until I change my mind again...
So, I seem to have found a place that sells Vallejo, GW, and Reaper paints in that order of cost (from most expensive to least). I think I'm inclined to buy the Vallejo paints (all the searching on the boards have yielded high praise for the color and paint pots) but I have a few questions that I couldn't seem to find after some searching of this forum...
1) Does anyone here have any feedback on Reaper paints? Looking through the forums, lots of people say 'heard good stuff about them' but I couldn't find a post from anyone who uses them and has lots to say.
2) Are there any differences in chemistry between Vallejo's Game Color and Model Color - or is it just that the game color is a smaller subset than the model colors and I could use model colors exactly the same as I use game colors?
3) Do I need to buy inks and if so, what for? Let's say I were painting an eldar striking scorpion that is mostly black but has green details... would I want to use blank paint and green ink or green ink then black paint? Or am I completely failing to grasp the use of ink?
Thanks for the input! I'm short on time and money these days so I figure I want to do a bunch of research first before spending what little disposable cash and weekends I have.
Hey , havent used reaper or valejo , but i use GW . You should try investing in the GW foundation paints , which are badass . . Inks are used to create shading and are used to get into the crevices / detail .
i have answers to 2 and 3
Vallejo model color and game color are mostly the same paints (i've heard that model color has more pigments, but i'm not convinced) However! the colors that are in game color are not necessarily in model color and vice versa. The differences between GW and game color are that Vallejo is thinner (i typically thin my paints somewhere in the 5:1 paint:water where with GW i would use 2:1) also, though Vallejo offers comparison charts between it's line and GW, they are not perfect matches. For example GW scab red is a little more purple then Vallejo Scar Red, so if you've started models with one, you may or may not be able to match up perfectly
3) Inks have many uses, depending on how you apply them and what you mix them with. I'll be honest and say every model i paint has at least a little ink on them, if only because i'm not that good a painter and it really helps me out :shifty:
a) mix with water and Future floor wax (or any other surface tension reducer) and wash the model. Because the surface tension is much less strong, the ink will tend to gather to the areas of highest surface areas, namely the corners and edges, and other details. The water / floor wax will evaporate, leaving pigments only in those areas. BAM instant shadows.
b) mix with Glaze Medium (you can buy this at michael's or you can buy the Vallejo stuff) and water, and what this does is turns the ink into a "tint" (ex: if you use yellow ink, make a glaze of it and paint it over white, you'll get a nice yellow). Say i'm painting a striking scorpion. Black with Green armor plates, since i'm not that good at blending, what i'll do is layer up high lights on all the plates, then use a green glaze to help blend the highlights together so they don't look too stark.
If you take a look at my eldar painting blog, you can see the firedragon has a "smoke" wash to him, then highlighted up armor plates, all done with Vallejo game color paints. He's not the best painted, but it should give you and idea of what the ink does.
I have answer to 1)
I have recently begun converting from GW paint over to Reaper. I have had limited exposer to Vallejo, but have found them very watery (which is good because you don't have to water down the paints as much).
I have had great success with Reaper paint, and have found it extremly similar in quality to GW and Vallejo paint. I really love the dropper bottle the Reaper Paints come in, as it makes life so much easier. It also makes shure that my paints don't dry. Reaper also has a range of different colours, arround 170 of them that is. This makes finding 'triads' of colours that much more simplistic.
Undeadair made a guide on how to paint a IG. I think that he used Reaper paints in that. It should be stickeyed in this section.
PM me if you have any more specific questions.
Check out the new Citadel Foundation Paints, they rock. One coat gives you perfect coverage over any other color
My 40K Armies:
- Thousand Sons
- Mordian Imperial Guard
- Dark Eldar
My Fantasy Armies:
- Lhamian Vampire Counts
I also have to admit... part of me doesn't want to give any more money to Games Workshop. Yes, I realize that gaming is a tough market if you don't do trading card games but I can't help but feel that Games Workshop over-charges for everything. I guess I just remember them having a different kind of business model... my 3rd Edition Warhammer Fantasy Battle book has EVERYTHING I need to play - no incomplete rules that call for special codices... whatever, ending rant now.
Thanks for the advice so far...
Last edited by Toonces; April 30th, 2007 at 05:04.
ad 1 - i`ve tested most of the paint brands for one of the polish miniatures sites. p3 won the test, with reapers master series just a couple of points behind. vallejo gc won "good buy" prize.
ad 2 - there is. not getting into technical stuff GC are better suited for gaming minis as the paint stick to the surface better (so it`s more resistant to damage). doesn`t matter if you use good sealer though
ad 3 - depends, but i would buy some. they`re perfect for shading metallics and invaluable when you dilute bad coating colors. just add some ink instaed o water and you`ll keep the color strong.
as for foundation paints - i`m not so enthusiastic about them. sure they have decent coverage but they`re not good for other things than basecoating. there are other brands that not only cover well but are fun to use. you have to decide whether you wish to buy 2 sets of paint (foundation for basecoating and some other for normal painting) or just 1 (paint line that will be good all-around).
Go Vallejo. It is very much worth your money.
Also, Vallejo Model Color chips a little more easily than Game Color, but that's only an issue for metal models, and you can just use a sealant anyway.
If you think Mathammer doesn't work and dice cannot be predicted, there's a whole field of mathematics called probability that would like to disagree.
my sister in law gave me hell the other day because she found out that i still used the gamesworkshop brand paints.... little did i know, a while back, GW switched manufacturers of their paint and in turn lowered the grade of their paint.... and after talking with lots of local artists who play warhammer, they all really dislike the GW paint for some reason... they said it didnt feel right or some nonsense like that...
they all recomend u goto your local hobby store and pick up some water based paint.... instead of paying 5bucks each, you can be paying 5 bucks for like 5.... is what they said... and the colors are practically the same.... just some thoughts..
and no matter what style paint you use. as long as u seal it afterwords, u should have a long lasting paint job.
There are cheaper alternatives...VGC is very good. On the cheaper side you can get about 3 timse as much paint as in a GW pot for one dollar or less. Of the cheaper acrylic paints at craft stores, I'd go with Folkart paints. They have the highest pigment count and thin beautifully. However, the binder in the paints isn't the greatest so they tend to flake off. So just coat them with some sealant and you're good to go. I've found the testor's semi gloss clear to be very good.
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