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#1 (permalink)
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| Member Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 125
Rep Power: 18 ![]() | I took some very fine sand out of a bag we happened to have, and glued it on a "test" base (just with PVA glue) . The texture (is that the right word....?) looked really good but when I put some paint over it, it started to "crumble" off a bit. Does anyone know hot wo fix this or should I just get other sand? Help is really welcome... Adrianus |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2006
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I find I get better results using coarse mason's bedding sand than fine. However, I also have a regiment of chaos knights based with fine sand, and I had the same problem with sand falling off. My solution--which I use on all sanded and gravelled bases now--is AFTER the glue had dried overnight, I dip the base in a dish filled with Future(R) Floor Finish. The same stuff that I use to dilute my paint and to make my inks stickier. I just saturate the base and the sand and put the model on a slick surface to dry again. The net result is that I end up with a layer of concrete on the base of the model. When using coarse sand, I find there's no need to paint the sand. I just paint the angled part of the base using whatever color is in use to unify the regiment/army and the base is done. Sometimes I just hit the sanded base with brown ink to heighten the contrast....but Future(R) is the solution to everything.
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Oh, in the kitchen Meg! ![]() Join Date: May 2007 Location: There's no place I can be, since I've found Serenity. Age: 18
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If using PVA, it is usually a good idea to give the sand a coat of watered down PVA to help secure it. I find that if there is enough water in the mix then you don't actually need to 'brush' the sand...if you just put the brush on the sand I find that it soaks up naturally. Otherwise, brushing over it will knock some sand off. Hope you can make sense of this, I'm not good at communicating... lol :happy:
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| Oh, in the kitchen Meg! ![]() Join Date: May 2007 Location: There's no place I can be, since I've found Serenity. Age: 18
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I usually do my painting and modelmaking in the evening, so personally I leave anything with PVA on to dry overnight. However it might take quicker, but I'm not sure myself. :happy:
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| the stormlord ![]() ![]() |
PVA takes 3~4 hours to dry to a usable level, assuming it isn't too thick. When it comes to basing, I always use PVA (white glue, wood glue etc etc), watered down slightly. Paint it over the base, dip in sand. Wait 15-30 mins, then seal with much thinner (ie: more water added) PVA. Leave 3~4 hours before priming, and Robert is your Mother's Brother. -t.
__________________ minus_t's painting log! Now with: Undead Druids... in Iron! Last updated 12/06/09 With your help we raised enough money to get Da Mighty Camel to the LO meet 2009! Thanks to everyone who helped CAMEL AID! "Never before has another man made me want to go out and buy vasaline"~The Paint Monkey "All I can remeber is Hazard stripes and -T's dusty brushes. ~danjones87 |
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Father of the Failed ![]() Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Holy Terra Age: 25
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Monsieur_t does pretty much exactly what I do when basing - the second PVA layer helps bind the sand together and keep it on the base. Be sure to give it enough time to dry or else it'll all fall off and ruin your hard work. Hope you have more luck in the future buddy ![]() Rich. |
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| toycutter: March 2008 | This thread | Refback | July 14th, 2008 22:07 | |
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