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Old April 11th, 2008, 02:41   #21 (permalink)
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You've got that right Omgitsduane, I don't anyone could make me build one either even at gunpoint but if you want something bad enough ya just gotta try.

Now for a less than satisfactory result my attempt to cast bogies and tracks. Surprisingly these are the most difficult part of the model. Mr. Silva most probably used a lost wax casting technique and the four treads that can be purchased from Forgeworld as mold dies hence the lack of the distinctive skull segments . His treads appear to be a type of metal possibly Woods metal or solder.

After many tries I managed to obtain some decent bogies and treads but I made them removable so used in battle my Hunter sports a set of original running gear. below are some of the molds I used to cast bogies and drive wheels.

THe Blackadder
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Last edited by The_Blackadder; April 11th, 2008 at 13:02..
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Old April 12th, 2008, 02:29   #22 (permalink)
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Well enough tapdancing around heres the finished product.

I used various sized straight pins for rivets and bits from Games Workshop models for hatches and vents, of course the sponsons from a landraider piping is just various sized styrene rods and the couplings are styrene tubes electrical conduit is twisted fine wire. The engine louvers are handmade likewise the carburetor covers. the exhaust pipes are cast from a Lucius Baneblade. I f anyone has any questions I'd be happy to answer them.

Hope it was worth the wait,

The Blackadder

My next project is the Lucius Warhound Titan of which I have just finished the rough hull.
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File Type: jpg P0002287.jpg (82.9 KB, 21 views)
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File Type: jpg P0002292.jpg (87.8 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg P0002294.jpg (86.0 KB, 13 views)

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Old April 12th, 2008, 13:48   #23 (permalink)
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It certainly worthed it... but what wait? You have done it in two days, IIRC...;Y +REP
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Old April 12th, 2008, 17:29   #24 (permalink)
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Looking good. Rep for you!
That titan will be awesome to see.
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Old April 12th, 2008, 20:40   #25 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replies and the rep points but I didn't build this tank in two days two months is more like it. It has already sustained minor battle damage that I noted when I took pictures of it the other day. one of the front tow hitches is missing and a few bogie access panel hinges have fallen off. Not bad for the number of battles its seen. I'm trying to work up the nerve to drill the holes in th bogie access covers which will punch up the plain look of the armor skirt and I noticed I neglected to put few whip antennas on the superstructure.

I found that a black nylon broom bristle or better still a black Chin pig whisker from a natural hair paint brush makes an incredibly fine antenna, flexible, extremely strong and tapered to a ultra fine point. They take a lot of bending without kinking. Just drill a fine hole where you want the antenna,put a drop of superglue on the whisker, insert and voila, a first class scale antenna.

I used black india ink to weather and dirty up the paint job. if you don't like the way it looks after its dry a shot of window cleaner and an artists fan blender brush can move the ink or remove it if you like. plus you can spray paint over it when its been dry for a few days. You can drench the whole model in windex and wash all the ink off under the tap too.

More hints from Heloise, LOL

The Blackadder
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Old April 12th, 2008, 21:56   #26 (permalink)
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Whoops wrong tank, Below is my Armorcast Baneblade sporting her nylon whip antenna.

The very near sighted Blackadder
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Old April 16th, 2008, 16:34   #27 (permalink)
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Straight pins huh...
I never seem to find pins in the scale I need.
I usually use my micro drill, drill out a hole, then take styrene rod the same diameter as the drill bit, dip the tip in glue and plug it into the hole, then chop of the end and buff with sandpaper. But this only really works for smaller rivets. I'll need to try the straight pin technique for larger ones.
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Old April 16th, 2008, 17:33   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyNo.5 View Post
Straight pins huh...
I never seem to find pins in the scale I need.
I usually use my micro drill, drill out a hole, then take styrene rod the same diameter as the drill bit, dip the tip in glue and plug it into the hole, then chop of the end and buff with sandpaper. But this only really works for smaller rivets. I'll need to try the straight pin technique for larger ones.
8Y
I've found 3 different sized straight pin heads Regular 25mm straight pins for dress making come in several head sizes depending on manufacturer I cut them in half or shorter as needed and for really tiny rivets 13mm craft pins used for sticking sequins on styrofoam christmas ornaments have a head about 1/2 mm. A rivet that size is about 40 to 50 mm scale which is still too large but good enough. I use the same micro drill and styrene rod technique for really small rivets.

The Blackadder
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