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Purity Seal Problems

5K views 15 replies 5 participants last post by  mattapplegate 
#1 ·
Hi all,

I am in need of a bit of consoling as a few days ago I just ruined a model that I had just finished painting by spraying it with Purity Seal! To my confusion I have been using Purity Seal for a year now (same can which is still quite full) and have been extremely happy with the results. However, on this occasion, a dusty appearance ensued.

With the model in a dusty state, I tried painting water on to the model, and the dusty appearance dissappeared, but when the water evaporated, the dusty look came back. In all honesty I had seen this before a long time ago when sealing some terrain but managed to get rid of it by covering with Matt Varnish. However in this case that trick did not work and the model was ruined! I am still absolutely devastated.

I thought it a one off and sprayed another 2 models the other day, only for the same thing to happen! I considered a new hobby briefly in my thralls! I was in a really dark place. Isn't life is full of hard lessons? However, I didn't panic as much this time and I covered these models with Gloss Varnish and that got rid of the dustiness. I then coated in Matt Varnish. This did the trick but still does not look as good as Purity Seal (when it works).

I wondered if anyone else has seen this?

Perhaps my can is out of date?

Perhaps I sprayed too little?

Perhaps I sprayed too much?

Perhaps the humidity was wrong?

Perhaps I was too close?

Perhaps I was too far?

Perhaps I didn't shake enough?

Perhaps I shook too much?

Please someone help me...

p.s. I have a feeling that it is either related to humidity / time of day of spraying, perhaps even sunlight, or the can being out of date.
 
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#2 ·
That has happend to me once except with a different spray (testors d'cote) I found that it was because the temperature (I spray outside) was to cold. The varnish went to a dusty white-ish colour :0. It could also be the can being out of date I suppose cause you have had it for quite a while now.

-Dwayne
 
#3 · (Edited)
Thanks for the reply :), I suppose it could be temperature related. I tend to try and paint every night and at the moment I am coming to the end of a production chain of Night Goblins. I have been finishing a few every night and going outside to the garage to spray them. I make sure to shake the can very thoroughly now but that did not work on the latest two I mentioned. I am sure I have sprayed at similar times of day before (around 10 to 11PM).

I have tested out a few theories tonight, I tested the spray on a spare DVD case which would seem a good test subject as it is black with a clear plastic cover - any dustiness shall not go unnoticed. I shook the can for a few minutes and sprayed the DVD case in my kictchen which is anything from 18 to 21 degrees centigrage (not Fahrenheit). I tried a thin coat and a thick coat. Both went dusty. I guess this rules out most things except the can being old?

What do you think?
 
#4 · (Edited)
Also

If it was windy or there were conditions that made u spray closer to the model than usual, it can make it dusty

same with all the sprays
can burn models easily with base spray if your too close


Just make sure its decent conditions, as Dwayne said the temp ain't too bad, not too windy and u can spray it relaxed and the same as u sually do. I find a foot-15" away works best with all sprays to be honest.
 
#5 ·
Also

If it was windy or there were conditions that made u spray closer to the model than usual, it can make it dusty

same with all the sprays
can burn models easily with base spray if ur too close


Just make sure its decent conditions, as Dwayne said the temp ain't too bad, not too windy and u can spray it relaxed and the same as u sually do. I find a foot-15" away works best with all sprays tbh.
Thanks for the comments. :)

No winds in my garage or kitchen, and I think I am certainly over a foot away when spraying. :?

I suppose the moral of the story is to always always always test before spraying. Leave 10 - 20 mins for the test subject to dry before committing. The last thing you want is to spend 4 weeks painting a unit of troops, then ruin the lot with Purity Seal.

I am very worried that Purity Seal can be this temperamental, if it is the age of the can, then what is to stop me buying a new one that has been in stock at the GW for ages! Perhaps the ratio of contents in the can has been effected with use AND age? Most varnishes are Gloss/Satin by nature, so perhaps the component that makes it Matt is now dominant.

Who knows? Does anyone know the exact reason?
 
#6 ·
In that case I apologise for commentary that was pointless and cannot say I know what the reason possibly could be.

Perosnally I only paint varnish my models. and only do it when i want armour plate to stand out over robes (like when both are black or something)

I'll try and look into it for you.
 
#9 ·
another thing that may cause freaky behaviour is storage temperature..

you mentioned spraying in the garage,

you didnt forget the can out there over night or so?

paints are a bit sensitive towards temperature fluctuations..
Most importantly, cold temperatures can wreck them, normal pigmentpaints usually dont show any symptoms, but clearcoats can get crusty, dusty, start to crack when drying etc etc, all because its simply been chilly in the storage.




just a thought.
 
#10 · (Edited)
another thing that may cause freaky behaviour is storage temperature..

you mentioned spraying in the garage,

you didnt forget the can out there over night or so?
just a thought.
Thanks for the comments! :)

I did take the the can with me on a trip back to see my folks. I was hoping to get some painting done! I did wonder about that... But I don't think the temperature would have been that different to be honest, even in transit. I certainly didn't leave the can outside...

...I am going to my local GW today to seek some advice and a new can. Will post any news.
 
#11 ·
well good luck mate.

Hope everything works out.
 
#12 · (Edited)
well good luck mate.

Hope everything works out.
Thanks! ;) I needed it!

As it happened didn't manage to get into the GW until today, and had a chat with the staff about Purity Seal which I shall summarise below:

The frosting or dusty look is well known and GW staff put it down to temperature. Basically one has to spray where one keeps his Purity Seal in storage, and leave the models to dry in the same place too. That was the advice.

If you recall in my case I go outside to my garage to spray. Indeed I think it was actually this that was the problem.

Today I purchased a new can and sprayed another painted model (after testing). My first test worked fine, my second was a little dusty but I went ahead anyway. I was convinced a new can would work fine. Did it bo***cks!

I ended up frosting another two models, and have spent the best part of the afternoon repainting them.

The insane thing was that I kept faith with Purity Seal. I really like the look when it works well. And considering I actually play games with my models, they need protection.

What I am doing now is spraying indoors (I actually think the hotter it is the better), out through an open window. The neighbours must think it a bid odd seeing and hearing a jet of spray from the window every so often :p. Everything seems a bit more reliable now. I am also brushing water over my models before spraying and leaving them to dry. In order to get rid of finger grease.

But beware of Purity Seal's temperament. Trust in testing first. If its dusty on your test, it will be dusty on your model!
 
#13 ·
What did you use to test then?

an undercoated spare part or something??
as it seems a waste of a model to set one aside for testing, and it only works once...
 
#14 ·
What did you use to test then?

an undercoated spare part or something??
as it seems a waste of a model to set one aside for testing, and it only works once...
Originally a DVD or CD case. As it is clear plastic, I will be able to see if it frost easily. However I wasn't convinced that the same effect would be observed on a model, so I dug out some old (over 10 years) Ork Stompas from Epic 40k. I had sprayed them black in the past and used these for my test subjects.
 
#15 ·
Thanks a tonne mate. Experience has been well passed on.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Update

Okay, I have another update.

Last weekend I went into a different Games Workshop and raised the same issue. On this occasion I was told that the dusty problem was batch related.

The chap in the store and I sprayed some spare models in the shop to test a can I was going to buy and it did not go dusty. I bought the can and I took it home with me and tested it again at home and sprayed some of my models. It did not go dusty but it was very very glossy. :(

What I did then was paint Matt Varnish over the top and I am now very happy with the outcome. It looks as good as the Purity Seal I had when it actually worked. I would recommend this method. i.e. Purity seal then Matt Varnish. The reason why Purity Seal is a good start point is that it provides a completely even surface on which to put the Matt Varnish and the effect is much much better than just painting with Matt Varnish and stopping there. Everything looks crisper. The effect is also better than using Gloss Varnish then Matt Varnish as everything is smoother. Paint quite often goes thicker where intricate work has been done, the Purity Seal smooths this and makes everything look very professional.

I have been told that I can take my dusty cans back for a refund and I fully intend to do so.

Please do not follow my mistakes if you read this. I have summarised what works for me, and all I can hope is that you do not suffer the fate I have:
  1. Test the can in the Games Workshop. Ask to spray a spare model undercoated black, there should be some somewhere! If they ask you to buy the can (because they can't then sell it if they spray it and you don't want it) do it, then test it there with them. If it goes dusty, ask for a refund. If it is glossy then that is ok, and probably should be expected as it is after all a satin varnish.
  2. Make sure you store the can in a cool dry place.
  3. Test the can prior to every use on an old model sprayed black. Black makes it easier to see problems. I use one model, that I undercoat black then seal for each test.
  4. Spray in small short bursts (3 or 4 small bursts will give good coverage) over a foot away from the model. Do a model at a time. Be quick, but do not rush. You do not want the varnish to start setting then getting coated again, it may go frosty (not dusty).
  5. If the result is too glossy paint over with Matt Varnish. Or if you want extra protection go with a few coats of Matt Varnish on top. Allow the Matt Varnish at least 3 hours to dry.
  6. If ever you have problems take the can back for a refund.
One suggestion put to me by the staff at the Games Workshop was to use the new spray gun with the Matt Varnish as a replacement for Purity Seal. This sounds like a great idea in principal as everything is then under control. Let's keep our fingers crossed that this will work.
 
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