Help with Orks - Page 3

arachnid · July 24th, 2008, 18:09

have you thought about using the new washes from gw at all?

it would be a good middleground for you, with a minimum of fuss.

with a minimum of basecoats and a few washes youll get much better results than simply dipping them will..

prime.
basecoat (block in the color fields.. 1.2.3)
wash the fields in the appropriate color, green wash for skin, mud wash for boots etc...

finally just slap some metallics on.

et voilá.

a full squad shouldnt take more than a day if youre being neat, tops.

Chaos877 · July 24th, 2008, 18:42

painting teeth, eyes, glyphs, straps, etc. takes 10 minutes, max for me, and i do a whole lot of highlighting.

Naxn · July 25th, 2008, 00:57

I don't mean to highjack - Anyone know of a tutorial with pics of the wash methods that have been mentioned? e.g. basecoat > highlight > highlight > wash

Thanks

farmergiles65 · July 25th, 2008, 10:01

Unfortunately there seems to be an assumption that I have days of time spare to paint models! I don't, my life is so busy I'm lucky to get a few hours a week, only with holiday off work in August do I have spare days to paint. Therefore the shorter time it takes the better and from what I've done so far, base coating takes time to make sure no bits are left out, but the Army Painter stuff halves the time taken to finish the model and makes it look gr8 to boot!

Doesnt help when I still want more models in my army! Deff Dreads will be a pain to assemble and paint, Meganobz I'm hoping won't be so bad given the chunkyness of the model!

wildwest184 · July 26th, 2008, 16:34

Hopefully this will work for you. I have very little time to paint as well and had many orks to paint. After alot of experimentation I settled on this very simple, very fast paint scheme that has yielded some outstanding results!

1. Basecoat with Gretchin Green Foundation paint. At first you will be thinking "Wow, that looks awful!" However you have to give the Thraka Green a chance to do its magic!

2. Do a full wash with the Thraka Green and let it dry completey

3. Go back and do another full wash but this time focus on the recesses and let the Thraka Green pool up a little in the deep ones.

Now by this point I am pretty satisfied with the skin...Occassionally I might spot recesses with the Thraka Green wash to add a little more contrast. Start to finish is about 15 minutes and I have been told it looks superb and I have to agree.

For the teeth I basecoat Bleached Bone then do a wash with Devlan Mud. You'll have to do a couple more washes with the Devlan Mud and just trace it around as it dries in the recesses and along the top and bottom edge. Another 10 minutes or so total and it looks fantastic as well. Then just spot the eyes with Mechrite Red foundation and all your fleshy bits are done. I left my camera at work so I cant take a pic right now, but I will as soon as I can! Give it a shot though and let me know what you think.

wildwest184 · July 26th, 2008, 18:33

I took a few crappy pictures with my phone for now.

Luke Harvey · August 20th, 2008, 22:29

Firstly: Re the dipping

If you are going to use the "dip" technique, make a seperate paint pot with it watered down and once dipped run a large brush over it to pick up all the excess paint so it doesn't drive gluggy.

Second: Re the photo

If you have a "macro" mode on your camera click it on and try again (this will allow you to focus to the closer model) otherwise stand further away as your camera can't focus that close (then if you have a editing program, crop in close)

Naxn · August 21st, 2008, 02:37

I'd like to see some better pictures as well. Those were really blurry.

Beest · August 21st, 2008, 03:11

The quickest way i've found for orks is
1. primer spray of black
2. basecoat skin knarloc green, brown(boots n straps) scorched brown, any metals do boltgun metal, teeth bleached bone, all symbols and rokkits etc red.
3. wash the whole model with devlan mud. For my trukk boys i paint the armour red and the symbols yellow

At this stage the models are acceptable for tabletop use, so you can either stop here or continue on with one step of highlighting on each colour.

sadly no camera so no photos

July 24th, 2008, 18:09	#21 (permalink)
arachnid Chaotic revenant Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Sweden Posts: 194 Rep Power: 7	have you thought about using the new washes from gw at all? it would be a good middleground for you, with a minimum of fuss. with a minimum of basecoats and a few washes youll get much better results than simply dipping them will.. prime. basecoat (block in the color fields.. 1.2.3) wash the fields in the appropriate color, green wash for skin, mud wash for boots etc... finally just slap some metallics on. et voilá. a full squad shouldnt take more than a day if youre being neat, tops. __________________ Maraviglia Live tour M.41 "Dance for the pleasure of pain and the joy of death"

July 25th, 2008, 10:01	#24 (permalink)
farmergiles65 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 392 Rep Power: 15	Unfortunately there seems to be an assumption that I have days of time spare to paint models! I don't, my life is so busy I'm lucky to get a few hours a week, only with holiday off work in August do I have spare days to paint. Therefore the shorter time it takes the better and from what I've done so far, base coating takes time to make sure no bits are left out, but the Army Painter stuff halves the time taken to finish the model and makes it look gr8 to boot! Doesnt help when I still want more models in my army! Deff Dreads will be a pain to assemble and paint, Meganobz I'm hoping won't be so bad given the chunkyness of the model! __________________ Cheesy or Broken List: Chaos Marines - Lash of Cheese Dark Elves - Assassin

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July 25th, 2008, 00:57	#23 (permalink)
Naxn Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Age: 30 Posts: 10 Rep Power: 3	I don't mean to highjack - Anyone know of a tutorial with pics of the wash methods that have been mentioned? e.g. basecoat > highlight > highlight > wash Thanks

July 26th, 2008, 16:34	#25 (permalink)
wildwest184 Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Age: 28 Posts: 11 Rep Power: 3	Hopefully this will work for you. I have very little time to paint as well and had many orks to paint. After alot of experimentation I settled on this very simple, very fast paint scheme that has yielded some outstanding results! 1. Basecoat with Gretchin Green Foundation paint. At first you will be thinking "Wow, that looks awful!" However you have to give the Thraka Green a chance to do its magic! 2. Do a full wash with the Thraka Green and let it dry completey 3. Go back and do another full wash but this time focus on the recesses and let the Thraka Green pool up a little in the deep ones. Now by this point I am pretty satisfied with the skin...Occassionally I might spot recesses with the Thraka Green wash to add a little more contrast. Start to finish is about 15 minutes and I have been told it looks superb and I have to agree. For the teeth I basecoat Bleached Bone then do a wash with Devlan Mud. You'll have to do a couple more washes with the Devlan Mud and just trace it around as it dries in the recesses and along the top and bottom edge. Another 10 minutes or so total and it looks fantastic as well. Then just spot the eyes with Mechrite Red foundation and all your fleshy bits are done. I left my camera at work so I cant take a pic right now, but I will as soon as I can! Give it a shot though and let me know what you think.

August 21st, 2008, 02:37	#28 (permalink)
Naxn Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Age: 30 Posts: 10 Rep Power: 3	I'd like to see some better pictures as well. Those were really blurry.

August 21st, 2008, 03:11	#29 (permalink)
Beest The Coffin Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: QLD Australia Age: 20 Posts: 32 Rep Power: 7	The quickest way i've found for orks is 1. primer spray of black 2. basecoat skin knarloc green, brown(boots n straps) scorched brown, any metals do boltgun metal, teeth bleached bone, all symbols and rokkits etc red. 3. wash the whole model with devlan mud. For my trukk boys i paint the armour red and the symbols yellow At this stage the models are acceptable for tabletop use, so you can either stop here or continue on with one step of highlighting on each colour. sadly no camera so no photos