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| King of the Burning Sands ![]() Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Maine-South Carolina Age: 25
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| loves purple tyranids ![]() Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: vermont and proud of it
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It is pretty easy really. I use either the ground I find outside (if it is fine enough) or the tub of dirt from GW (I like it better). I also use standard PVA glue (also known as elmers glue). That is for the base itself. For the paint I use scorched brown, graveyard earth, and bleached bone. First I lay down PVA glue on the entire base. If the model is on it try to get the glue around it. Then dunk your base in a tub of the dirt. Let it dry and then take the base and tap it upside down over your tube. This will get rid of any excess sand. To paint I first put down black. This is mandatory, just like all painting. Then I lay down scorched earth. After that I heavily drybrush graveyard earth. Depending on the sun I scarcely drybrush bleached bone in the direction of light. If there is no desired direction you could just lightly drybrush it everywhere. Spray it with a sealant and maybe lay down a little bit os static grass and you are done!
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| King of the Burning Sands ![]() Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Maine-South Carolina Age: 25
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What's the rim color? I always do the rim in a darker color, its a contrast thing, it helps on my past basing projects.
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| loves purple tyranids ![]() Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: vermont and proud of it
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I like black, but one of the two darker browns could work well.
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| King of the Burning Sands ![]() Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Maine-South Carolina Age: 25
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Used scorched brown for edging. Took drybrushing one step further, used white to make it look sun bleach ground, inked it with devlan mud to blend them, then drybrushed white again. this is simply a test model but it looks good so far.
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| Member ![]() Join Date: May 2008 Location: California
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I take regular playground sand, glue it down with some elmers glue, and then give it a wash with Liquitex Raw Umber. How much you cut the Liquitex with dihydrogren monoxide, will affect how much of the natural lightness of the sand shows through. I follow up with a drybrushing of the equivalent of white and tau sept ochre. Depending on the type of desert you're trying to achieve, you can glue down some arid static grass and some rocks.
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| Renaissance Man ![]() Join Date: May 2005 Location: New Zealand Age: 22
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Rep Power: 75 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Quote:
\Nice one.
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| | #8 (permalink) | |
| King of the Burning Sands ![]() Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Maine-South Carolina Age: 25
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Thanks for the help so far guys.
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| LO's Resident Time Lord ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: New England, USA Age: 36
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You also mention static grass. Is there a place where one can get something "desert" appropriate? Is there a "scrub brush" or "tumbleweed" flock out there? Putting green flock or static grass on desert wasteland bases seems... wrong | |
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| Member ![]() Join Date: May 2008 Location: California
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Glad people caught the joke. I add the sand after priming specifically so that I don't have to overpaint black. There are tons of colors for static grass. I use both the green and a lighter tan arid color from Gale Force 9 as well as a mix of the two to lighten up the green a little.
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