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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2006
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What brushes do you use? I've been using the Citadel brushes but find they're not fine enough for a lot of detail work. Apparently sable brushes are where its at, but I don't know of any good brands. Suggestions? Thanks!
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| is Alpharius ![]() ![]() |
To be honest, citadel brushes are pretty damn good for almost everything. I've been using them (on and off) for at least 8 years, and only recently have I found my paiting abilities to be outreaching the ability of my brushes. If you are using your brushes well, not leaving them in water, watering your paint etc, the only things that should present a problem when using citadel brushes is extreme detail, such as eye pupils, highlighting freehand lines etc. If you really want to get some better brushes, invest in some Windsor and Newton Series 7 Finest Sable brushes. Sizes 1, 0 and 000 should provide you with a decent set of general purpose detail brushes. Take very good care of them, as they are very expensive. ![]() -t.
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| 5,4,3,2,1..............0? ![]() Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Dis (geddit?!) Age: 26
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Also, to clean, gentle rinsing in a cup of clean(!) water helps. Don't aggressively scrape the brush on the bottom. Plus, try not to get paint on the ferrule. That's always hard to clean and paint there tends to ruin the brush. These should help prolong the brushes. Also, Citadel's fine detail brushes are very small and be good for the detail you require. If you want better quality, Winsor and Newton Series 7 as Minus t says, are grand. |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Needs to kill stuff! ![]() |
A cleaning method taught to me by the GW staff to really clean a brush well is to put a blob of washing up liquid in the palm of your hand and swirl the brush around in it, making sure the soapy stuff gets right in there and then wash it with water, it really revitalizes a brush and cleans out lots of old paint. :yes:
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| The Fallen ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: SW England Age: 40
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ok some basics: 1. avoid gettting paint more than half way up the bristles (some one already said this), it will result in the brush loosing its point much quicker 2. if you dry brush, this is gonna ruin a brush very quickly 3.sable brushes will keep the points longer but ultimately all brushes will lose their points eventually, I buy a new set of brushes every two months or so Personnaly I use Windsor and Neuton, but there is nothing in particular wrong with GW
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Brisbane Age: 21
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While everyone is using good old Sable, i'm here playing with my Teklon. Have a look at synthetic fibre brushes if you haven't already, you may like them you may hate them. After i started using them i love em to bits.
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| Thread Killer! ![]() |
Nothing wrong with synthics but over time they tend to fishtail or splay out in a matter than can't be fixed because the brush hairs are much toughter than sable and don't break off. I usually reserve the synthetic brushes for base coats, any drybrushing or other aggressive painting. I too Use Windsor and Newton Series 7 brushes. Very nice brushes and to date I have had a couple brushes last about 4 years and am currently on my 2nd replacement about 8 months old and going fairly strong. To help keep a point on the brush after I am done painting for the eventing and clean the brush I then wet the tip and rub it on a brush soap bar I got at a local art supply store. I then twirl it on a paper towel to "reform" the tip. The soap will harden a bit (you really don't need to put too much on and most wipes off anyway) just enough to hold the brush tip in shape. The next time you paint you should have a crisp tip that holds up better than if you didn't use the bar soap. It doesn't work very well with the synthetic brushes however. As for brush sizes you really don't need a brush smaller than 000. Most people actually use brushes that are too small. For base coats I would never recommend anything smaller than a size 1 and usually use a size 2 or even a tank sized brush to put on base coats. Detail stuff including eyes can usually be done with a size 1 brush and in some cases a 000. Believe it or not the tip is the most important thing. If you keep a sharp tip you can do amazing fine detail with a larger brush. Cheers, -Mike
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Member Join Date: Jan 2006
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For some other work I have done I needed cheap, easy to clean brushes that won't make me cry when the little ones jab them, maul them and eat them. Well, let me tell you, I found a pack of 12 brushes, assorted sizes for less then $2. They looked alright... So I take them home, we get our projects going (smart me not sacrificing my $15 brush for this!!) and I select el' cheapo brush and begin my masterpiece. What a difference!! Not in a good way mind you. 3 strokes and the brush lost all resemblance to a brush. It was like painting with a wet noodle. Good way to teach children proper brush care techniques, but man alive... you can tell instantly the difference between a .30$ brush and a 15$ brush. Bottom line... you get what you pay for (in most cases) and taking care of them really counts in the long run. But nothing lasts forever. (except a Toyota) |
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