Kuffy's WIP Thread

[Leech]

Originally Posted by King Ulrik Flamebeard

Then the blade. I washed it with various layers of scorched brown and Tamiya Clear Orange to represent 'wear, tear, and ageing'. This was OK, but hard to see due to the basecoat being so dark (note, rusting etc seems to work best over a clean layer; chainmail or mithril silver perhaps).
KU

Rusting metal can be a pain. I have done loads of it and I have found the best way to go is layers. Rust tends to make metal look more 3D as it messes it up and basically makes parts flake off. You're right about the basecoat being so dark. Don't do silver as the rusting efforts will darken some areas and leave other untouched meaning the silver will stick out oddly on some parts of the blade amist puddles of brown.

Boltgun metal is good. I drybrush it over black or tin bitz, tin bitz gives a good start for rust. The drybrushing is best for this as it has the effect of making the metal areas greedy and they suck up inks instead of having it run off and possibly drip. I often go for chainmail too, right after the boltgun metal.

I use brown ink washes to do the rust. I find winsor and newton peat brown is very good for this, beware though, if you use winsor and newton wash out the brush every time you move from metal paint to ink as the ink absorbs the little shiny bits giving 'glitter brown ink'

. Sometimes I use the brown ink right after the boltgun metal and then let it dry before adding the chainmail and then inking that too. Basically it is possible to alternate with this method. Good for doing whole mobs of guys with rusty weapons as the weapons look in different states of neglect and as such more life-like.

Once the two shades of metal are down and one or two layers of ink I find it is good to very lightly drybrush over the weapon. What is used varies. Because the weapon is in use rust will of been scraped off the edges as it chops people up. A very light drybrush of chainmail can help to bring out the curves and so on. this helps to make it look nastier but in a subtle way.

Silver can be used too, but generally in very small quantites, basiclly a very light dusting on the edges. The reason this highlight of lighter un-rusty metal is needed is to give the person viewing the blade a basis of comparison on the weapon itself. I don't mean they will see rusty and un-rusty bits but they will see rust is creeping into or taking over the weapon. It is very easy to end up with a purely brown metal thing which looks like it has been dipped in a slurry pit. Basically it makes the rust look unclean and rusting what good metal remains.

The method I use has loads of variations and different kinds of ink can be used. Warmer browns will get a kind of coppery look and loads more layers and several different nks can give huge variety.

[Rabbit]

Leech, great advice btw. Would you recommend doing the same process for NMM rusting, except substituting the metallics for the base colors in ascending shades? I've had some difficulty doing this with a couple of predators that start off as a dark Ultra Marines blue and progressively gets more and more rusted.

[Kerinst]

How much longer must we wait for painted models already Kuffy, c'mon man get it together and impress us already

[Leech]

Originally Posted by Rabbit

Leech, great advice btw. Would you recommend doing the same process for NMM rusting, except substituting the metallics for the base colors in ascending shades? I've had some difficulty doing this with a couple of predators that start off as a dark Ultra Marines blue and progressively gets more and more rusted.

I'm not sure, I suck at net-speak and don't know what NMM means. Macewind had much fun at my expense in PM's (I know what those are) about my lack of knowledge and he knows it plus they had to tell me SOB means Sisters of battle in the fluff forum.

You can PM me with questions too. I think you are talking about rusting the paint of a tank. The thing about rust is when it comes into contact with paint it forces the paint up. Painting the rust over the top of the paint will make it look like crusty ooze on the tank. I would suggest you try these effects. Paint your Predator rust coloured first. Use several shades of metal as with the Wraith's scythe.

As you build this up you will get a kind of rough effect on the surface of the tank. You can add inks in different colours to show rust in different stages of 'rusting'. The rough effect that you will get i suggest you leave to only a few areas. these can be the rusted areas. You can paint the blue on later over the rust. Note that paint when in contact with rust changes to rust colour very quickly, there is no gradual progression aside from what will look like dark stains in the paint, these stains look almost oily.

You can also try spraying your model, black/white whatever suits you for a basecoat but fairly lightly as this will not be the actual basecoat and too much paint will ruin the detail. Then you get gloopy thick paint, you know how paint pots get all gooey towards the end of thier lives or use several layers of normal paint. The colour of this paint matters not.

Paint this paint over the basic hull of the vehicle, particularly anywhere you want rust to be. What you want is basically an extra layer of skin for your tank. It is best to paint over a whole area so there won't be areas where it is obvious there is an extra layer of paint. Also beware of evil lumps and don't get it on details as it will destroy them.

The basecoat will give this paint a good grip for what you are about to do. Take a scalpel, craft knife or whatever, make sure it is a blade you trust and will do exactly what you want it to do. One that isn't sharp is good. You use thei knife to chip off layers of paint you just applied to the tank. You need only do it in a few areas.

These areas will be the areas affected by the rust. Most of this extra layer you leave alone. The basecaot will make sure it doesn't all come off. Either as you chip it or later on after it's been painted for a month of two. Once you are satisfied you can spray the model properly and paint it up. The areas you chipped away, the true surface of the tank is now the rust beneath the tanks paint which is rusting through and the extra layer of paint you have is apparently the normal surface of your model.

Hope this helps and sorry Kuffy for coughing up loads of info for other in your Wraith Blog.:hail:

Oh and you see the icon up there at the top. I used it before and it says it a basketball. I think it's really a cabbage. Who else thinks it's a cabbage?

[King Ulrik Flamebeard]

OK, well I took a day or so off and I have been working a bit - and reading a lot. I am not fully convinced it has turned out quite how I wanted, but I'm not sure. It does give a sort of glowy look, though I'm not fully convinced about the back of the - skull, weapon blade and haft. Live and learn I suppose. Just the eyes left, then onto the base. =D




As you can see, the skull and weapon as I mentioned don't quite look right to me. I think perhaps if I had done more, thinner washes/glazes it might well have worked better. But it's not too bad. The cloak itself isn't too bad I think. What do you all say?

Kerinst - I'm in no rush. I paint when I find the time or inclination. You'll just have to be patient until then. =P


Leech - NMM = Non Metal Metal; ie using 'normal' paints to create the look of metallics (grey for silver, brown and yellow for gold etc) But thanks for the advice on rust. I did look at a tutorial on CMON a while back about rust, yet it seemed to go in one ear and out the next. I guess I'll just have to practice a bit more with it. =D

KU

[theyak]

Heya Leech, so just in case you weren't being sarcastic or facetious, NMM stands for Non Metallic Metal painting in tones and shades to acheive a realistic metal look rather than relying on a metallic paint.

[Leech]

Originally Posted by theyak

Heya Leech, so just in case you weren't being sarcastic or facetious, NMM stands for Non Metallic Metal.

I wasn't being sarcastic I really didn't have a clue. I kept think is that and army of some kind?

Kuffy: The work on the Wraith is good. I can see the green appears to be on the back of the Wraith now. I think it looks good. You could try adding some to the front of the Wraith lower down towards his feet or flowing robes.

The reason for this is there would be some of the evil green light from the moon on the ground infront of him and it's light would reflect up onto him. It would of course be reduced in strength. It would all be somewhat diluted but the strongest of this reflected green light on the Wraith would be towards the lower area of his robes.

Because the front of the Wraith is turned away from the light source most of it will be in shadow and distinctly darker than his rear. Also in real life when looking at something in the dark which has a light source behind our eyes will react to the light and everthing between will be darker than it really is. For this reason you could make the Wraith darker than the back in a way that isn't just an absence of the lighter green highlights.

[theyak]

No problem, that's why I replied.

[Rabbit]

It looks good, especially the green lighting. As for the front of the skull, perhaps you should try adding a little more of the dark undertones in the recesses, and also just a tad bit more white highlights. That said, I'm not sure about adding additional highlights. As Leech said, the front should be shadowed. Perhaps you could work your way back down through a series of shadings.

[King Ulrik Flamebeard]

OK, well the eyes have been done. I sort of like them, but it will require practice to get this looking good at all really. =)



KU