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Old August 18th, 2008, 08:10   #11 (permalink)
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Good luck on this project. I know you'll make that beast look very iron warrior-y.

I think you are right too, about the head not working with the iron warrior symbol. The warhound has a long, canine-like head, which wouldn't look good if changed to a tall and norrow helmet shape.

Can't wait to see some progress.


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Old August 18th, 2008, 22:21   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks ShadowZora13. Its going to have some serious love. Just looking over the model theres so many little bits I want to make stamps of so I can put them on my other Iron Warriors vehicles.

Ive just finished a mammoth session with the tooth brush. Cleaned all the pieces in warm water with a very large amount of multi surface cleaner. Helpped to lift off all the remaining mould release agent, hopefully!
Im going to hair dryer all the little parts to dry them before bagging them back up so I dont loose them and leave all the big bits on my window to dry over night.

So tomorrow I will hope to be getting a little work done cleaning up the feet and legs so I can dry fit them a bit.

Yesterday, Flayedone, my gaming group and myself had a chat about poses and basing ideas and such. It was decided that the titan should be stationary, left foot on a buckling Imperial fist rhino, turning slightly to the left firing the vulcan with the plasma at rest. Thoughts?

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Old August 18th, 2008, 22:29   #13 (permalink)
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If you don't make the smashed rhino look awesome, I'm going to have to make that IW making a sand castle, and have an IF stomp on it.
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Old August 19th, 2008, 00:03   #14 (permalink)
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If you don't make the smashed rhino look awesome, I'm going to have to make that IW making a sand castle, and have an IF stomp on it.
That sounds hilarious, and should be made anyways. Make it so!

Good luck again dan. Just be careful with the blow dryer on those small bitz.

Also, pose sounds good.
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Old August 19th, 2008, 22:14   #15 (permalink)
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OK, this is seriously stepping up a gear. The whole Rhino being squashed underfoot is going to produce some serious problems. Plastic and metal dont react the same way to force, many people will say Rhinos in 40K are made of plastic, but Im sure its supposed to be adamantium or somthing. So I think Im going to have to melt the top half of the rhino to sink the foot in to it slighty, Then there will be folds in the metal outer from the weight. How do the doors react to this stress put on the frames touching them? Then the weight of the warhound will probably push the Rhino into the ground slightly.

I WILL do this. No pussying out.

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Originally Posted by Jaffar_Hasad View Post
If you don't make the smashed rhino look awesome, I'm going to have to make that IW making a sand castle, and have an IF stomp on it.
Im going to sit a take along time with my council of moddlers planning and beating that rhino. Make it anyway.

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Good luck again dan. Just be careful with the blow dryer on those small bitz.

Also, pose sounds good.
The blow dryer is a menace blowing parts away more than melting them!

Click the image to open in full size.

Feet trimmed and the non poseable parts glued. The toes and middle joints are just dry fitted in this picture.

Dan
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Old August 19th, 2008, 23:15   #16 (permalink)
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Bowed rhino doors would look good I think. The pressure on the top of the rhino causing the sealed doors to bow out, buckle and crack on its hinges - it's being crushed, not pulled, so I think it's fair the doors could feasibly stay on it's hinges. The pressure would be at the top (from the titan) and the bottom (gravity, the hinges, and the ground) so it would push itself outward from the middle up.

I have a picture in my mind of the titans foot being square in the centre of the rhino and the front and rear of the rhino bowing upwards so the tracks are off the ground. That way then you could forget the doors pretty much completely as the centre of the rhino is trodden into the ground, looking more like someone has stepped on a tin can.

Just my thoughts anyway...it's your puppy, not mine
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Old August 20th, 2008, 04:33   #17 (permalink)
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One quality way of warping your tanks is to leave them on the dash in your car for 8+ hours on a 100° (F) day. It worked really well on all my old IG tanks (*#@^%*!!!)
Seriously though, assembling the main body of the rhino w/o tracks on it and then heating it up may be the way to go. I would actually use the assembled titan foot on the heated tank to get the rending to look appropriate for the foot. You may want the foot on the edge of the rhino. When I played with this idea, Scooter looked way off balance because his foot had to be so high to get on top of the tank. Maybe boosting the other foot on something else would help.
To super heat metal models for repositioning, I bake them in a pan of walnut shells at 350° (F) for about 10-15 minutes –mmmm, delicious.

Click the image to open in full size.

When you take it out, use hot pads and needle nose pliers with masking tape wrapped around the ends to re-position stuff. Sand can work just as well. I got the walnut shells from a sand blasting project. Make sure the sand/shells completely cover the model and don’t let it touch the sides. The idea is to heat the model throughly and evenly. I do this a lot with metal, not so much with plastic. You have to be much more careful with plastic. Keep checking it. When it comes out you want it to be malleable, but not melted. I’ve done that. Oh, and don’t use your wife’s good baking pans. I’ve done that to. It did not end well for me.
I'm not gonna lie, the odds of destroying your tank are fair, but you want a destroyed tank anyway, right? Oh, and do it in a well ventalated area. And don't burn yourself. And don't burn your house down (unless you live in my district and I'm on duty.) And don't run with scissors. And did I mention not using your wife's good pans? Who knew!?!
It works well as you can bend things all sorts of ways without cracking or breaking them. Here's the only unpainted example I have. I twisted his arm so the whip was in front and not over his head.

Click the image to open in full size.

It’s a bit of a gamble, no lie. Best case scenario you have the most bad @$$ titan base in the land. Worse case, you have some expensive tank graveyard scenery.

Jake
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Old August 20th, 2008, 10:28   #18 (permalink)
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Mmm titan. drool.

will be watching dan.
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Old August 20th, 2008, 10:43   #19 (permalink)
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Old August 20th, 2008, 13:38   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by distortiondave View Post
Bowed rhino doors would look good I think. The pressure on the top of the rhino causing the sealed doors to bow out, buckle and crack on its hinges - it's being crushed, not pulled, so I think it's fair the doors could feasibly stay on it's hinges. The pressure would be at the top (from the titan) and the bottom (gravity, the hinges, and the ground) so it would push itself outward from the middle up.
I think Im going to take the doors off, heat and bend them at the corners so it looks like they have popped off there and maybe push the centres out so it looks like pressure is forcing it outward.

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Originally Posted by Lil Tweaker View Post
Seriously though, assembling the main body of the rhino w/o tracks on it and then heating it up may be the way to go.
Unfortunately the majority of it is assembled. Ive had a session of takeing non essentials and pokey outy bits off.

Quote:
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I would actually use the assembled titan foot on the heated tank to get the rending to look appropriate for the foot.
You may want the foot on the edge of the rhino. When I played with this idea, Scooter looked way off balance because his foot had to be so high to get on top of the tank. Maybe boosting the other foot on something else would help.
Would this not clog the foot with plastic? Im not too keen on putting any force through resin, I expect as I start to put pressure through it that it would snap. im looking at finding a bit of wood or somthing thats solid and the same width as the toes to hammer into the sides. The top is a different matter, the foot probabley needs to sink about half an inch into the top of the rhino to give the vulcan enough clearance off the knee. The left leg cant be too high as it will mean the right leg is too straight and will look super dodgey.

If I boost the right leg up it will look a bit obvious that I have done this toequal out the left leg.

I think Im going to sink the rhino into the floor slightly. The weight of the titan would push it into the ground slightly, definately so if it stops down heavily onto it.

Ive thought about the armour on the outside of the rhino, when stood on would it ripple like a drinks can. Im confident I could easily reproduce this with greenstuff which gives me some relief in this mamoth undertaking.

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Mmm titan. drool.

will be watching dan.
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