Godzilla Tyranid Army

[aeroplane]

'Dipping' involves taking a miniature and literally dipping it into the minwax wood stain.

I would like to say, again, that I brush the 'dip' on to the model. (The 'dip' is Minwax Polyshades antique walnut in the US it's avaliable at Home Depot, amongst other places.) I do not dip the model in 'dip'. You can, but you will loose any detail work you may have painted on extra. it's easier to glop it on with a brush and then smooth out the places you don't want it to gather.

[aeroplane]

I've seen it done with marines as well, but doesn't work nearly as well. It comes out looking messy.

An accurate description, but it can look quite good in the right circumstances - see this link;

http://www.librarium-online.com/foru...ramarines.html

[theyak]

Hey, Even dipped models require "after care" to get them to look good. Dipping and then leaving = really ugly.

Regardless of whether brushed or dunked on. Its usually used as a ubiqitous term for whole model coverage of (usually) a darker wash/ink.

[NecroNid]

Even dipped models require "after care" to get them to look good

What do you mean by "after care"? I will definitely look into this as I personally like the look.

[PaRaSiTe_X92]

He means a little bit of work after the dipping. Once dipped, the model isnt complete, it still needs parts neatened up etc.

[kore]

I would like to say, again, that I brush the 'dip' on to the model. (The 'dip' is Minwax Polyshades antique walnut in the US it's avaliable at Home Depot, amongst other places.) I do not dip the model in 'dip'. You can, but you will loose any detail work you may have painted on extra. it's easier to glop it on with a brush and then smooth out the places you don't want it to gather.

Well, when HarleyXJGuy originally posted about using the Minwax he warned about literal dipping and advocated brushing it on, at first. Later he suggested using an electric drill to spin off the excess of a literally dipped model. The key is to thin out the Minwax a bit more and do two dippings with two days between each session to allow the first coat to dry properly. I adopted this method and the proof is in the pudding, the detail remains.



Testors Dullcote was used in this case to get rid of the shine. I think, though, the shine is very appropriate for your Tyranids and the brush method worked very well for you.

[Koss]

one gripe about it i have is that the models look unaturanly smooth, which reminds me of computer generated models for like computer games.

[Leech]

I think they look good. You have a efficient and effective method of painting them which is good.

There are one or two things you could do which will really brighten them up and won't take long. Paint the eyes yellow or light green. This will make them appear more life-like. Also the red eyes that GW uses in the kraken colour scheme is very silly, you can't tell the eyes from the carapace.

I would suggest just a little time spend applying a slightly lighter shade of red to the edges of the carapace. This will liven them up well. Ten minutes at most with a small drybrush and light red paint will do a Carnifex. An hour will easily do you whole swarm.

[aeroplane]

I would suggest just a little time spend applying a slightly lighter shade of red to the edges of the carapace.

Actually, it's about the lightest red I can make without it going orange on me. The photos are a bit dark and brooding -- but they look good. (the photos) To do what you suggest would look great, supposing the right color could be mixed, but would totally defeat the 'I can't believe how good these look for the work involved' paintjob.

[aeroplane]

Stay tuned - I will go through (with pics) the entire process. I am going to build a 'DevilFex' in the style of RudyPicardo - his is awesome, just look;


In honor of this great bit of sculpting, I am going to try to copy that gun as closely as possible, and then paint to match my army.