Godzilla Tyranid Army

[Hunter Killer]

Your models look terrific, but I have to agree with Leech: Another ten to twenty minutes or so of detail work (subtle highlights and such) could really set them off, and even then it'd still be faster than a normal paint job.

I must also say that Rudy's dakkafex is quite possibly the coolest configuration for a dakka I've seen in, like, ever... I might have to try making one myself.

[maninbed]

hey if i dip then dont like it can it come off??

_____________________________
"I have never been in a war, but after this i dont think i want to be"
the coming of the splinter fleet dark shadows

[maninbed]

hey if i dip can and dont like it can i take it off??


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"I have never been in a war, but after this I'm not sure I ever want to be in one again"
before the arrival of splinter fleet dark shadows

[aeroplane]

Originally Posted by Hunter Killer

Another ten to twenty minutes or so of detail work (subtle highlights and such) could really set them off, and even then it'd still be faster than a normal paint job.

Yes, I agree. However, that is not the point of this paintjob.

Originally Posted by Hunter Killer

Rudy's dakkafex is quite possibly the coolest configuration for a dakka I've seen

It's really incredible! It looks so much better than the standard Dakka!

[aeroplane]

.

[aeroplane]

I haven't forgot about this thread, I've just been really busy.

I promised I would do a step by step of this for those of you who are interested. Here are the steps so far...

1. Spray the LIGHTER color that you want on the model. I do this when it's still on the sprue, but that is totally up to you. Don't worry too much about a even, smooth spray job right now. Just don't get it runny or gloppy.



2. Clip the pieces off the sprue and then REMOVE THE MOLD LINES - it's very important that you get the mold lines off the model because 'dip' really makes them stand out. This can't be stressed enough!!

3. Assemble and touch up the light color. On a bigger model,like this carnifex, do the legs/tail and body first, then mate them. Leave the head and arms off for now.



A few words on getting the carnifex to stand up better -

Trim the parts that are on the legs that get glued to the tail - don't lop 'em of, but cut the corners down so they have some play in the socket. Now that they are loose, position the legs so that the tail will be on the ground.

Also, cut these 3 spine bits off. They get in the way of the body/chest assembly from bending further up.



Here is the Dakka Rifle I made, in honor of and in the style of RudyPicardo;





More to come.

[aeroplane]

I was playing around with some ideas for ripper swarms.

The 'real' models are nigh impossible to get in any number, so here is my cheap & plentiful idea:

[aeroplane]

At this stage you should have the body assembled and mated to the tail/legs. Paint the carapace whatever color you like (in my example, red) and then touch up the first color. (Tan)
You can see a few spots that need to be addressed -





It's a lot easier to assemble and paint / touch-up without the arms attached. Once you are done with that, attach the arms. They were painted before assembly as well, along with the head.

One other note, if you are going to add any detail or accent color, do it to the head and weapons. They are the part that counts. The gun cables are a different color on this model because it is armed with a devourer - I made the cables and muzzle pink. It turned out looking like pepto-bismol, but worst things can happen! (my chief complaint is the lack of contrast, not the color) The gun cables on my other shooty 'fexes are green. Again, this was just done for variety and to make the Dakka look different.

Here are photos with the weapons attached.





If you look at the pictures at this point, you see a paintjob that a 10yr old can accomplish! The bulk of the model has 2 colors on it, and the detail work on the guns and head are very simple. So far, not including the time it takes for paint and glue to dry, I have about 45min-1 hour spent on this model. (although this one has an extra 20 min spent making the devourer rifle...)

Ok, now for the last 10 minutes of painting... the 'dip'



I use this stuff slightly thinned out with odorless mineral spirits (available wherever you get the 'dip') at a ratio of 10 :1 or possibly 8:1 . If you get it too thin it starts separating and getting really strange. Get it to the consistency of heavy cream - milk is too thin!
I think I added 2 cap-full of thinner to the small can of 'dip'. It will float, so shake well.

Now get an old brush and brush it on! In places where a bit more texture is welcome, glop it on. Legs, ribs, shoulders, etc... On the bits that you spent the time detailing, make a very light coat - it will act like a clear coat if you apply it thin enough.

One more thing - on these Carnifex models, the bottom of the chest, where the row of spikes are, there is a seam where the chest pieces mate. That area is a low spot and will collect a bunch of dip and needs to be smoothed out about 15 minutes later. Take your brush with a bit of thinner on it and dab it off. You should be able to load your brush with the glop from that spot and then use it to get the couple of other spots that you missed! (trust me. 15 min later you will see some places that you were just sure you got!)

After applying the 'dip' DON'T TOUCH IT FOR 8-12 HOURS!!!!! This is not our acrylic hobby paint, but polyurethane wood finish. It takes a long time to dry and is really tacky/sticky as it dries. Just leave it alone overnight.

And that next morning it will look like this -

[aeroplane]

So far, I have 3 complete - SniperFex, Screamer-killer, and DakkaFex



I will base them when the army is complete... I like PaRaSiTe_X92's idea of tall grassland. It will look really good!

[theyak]

Thanks for the play by play aeroplane!