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I know the stalwarts and purists will roast me for this but I want to try adapting the ruleset so it can be played on squares or hexes. I really really really dislike the game slowdown caused every time someone reaches for a ruler or there are LOS ambiguities. I know, a bunch of you will say this is part of the game but I'm merely trying to do what anyone does with a rule they don't like - change it.
It's a big ask - I know. The rules are complex and somethings simply won't work on a grid/hex, but if anyone has tried this, or done this, then let me know. If anyone wishes to help develop this then also let me know.
My first post here - I'm hoping to engage the community on a new way to play 40k. Great to be here.
Out of all the problems 40k rule set has, accurate measuring is not the top priority IMO.
However, writing a new rule set for a 'grid 40k ' , could be rather straight forward.
Nurglitch wrote a 'Bloodbowl' inspired version of 40k which was great fun.
Or you could look at 'CBT' starter rules for a good way to write rules for hex based scifi games.
But just converting the current rules to a grid sems a bit pointless IMO.
I can actually say that I've played 40k on a hex. To cover a 48x72" table with hexes would be difficult though. My friends and I used to play a lunch, using laminated hex papers and a dry-erase marker to mark where our troops were.
Hexes are better than grids, as they give you a slightly more accurate idea of movement than what a grid would (moving diagonally across a grid is actually "faster" thanks to the Mr. Pythagoras).
We simply turned all of the inch measurements into hexes. So if a weapon had a 12" range, it could fire for 12 hex spaces instead. We then went with the "old" LoS rules, which gave terrain a set height, and allowed you to see a set distance into trees. This way, we could draw the terrain and denote the height or size of each piece on the table.
For infantry, we played that one infantryman took up 1 hex. 25mm round bases were a single hex, 40mm rounds were a "Y" cluster of three hexes, and 50mm rounds were a group of four hexes. If you had vehicles, you had to measure the size of the actual model, and convert it as accurately as possible into hexes (we normally used templates for our vehicles). For the template weapons, a Small Blast was a 3x3 "square" of hexes. A 5" was a 5x5 square of hexes. The Flame Template was tough, but we reasoned that a 1 - 1- 1 < 2 -2 < 3 > 2 was a good rough estimate of an 8x3 teardrop.
LoS was worked out by drawing a straight line along the grid to your opponent's model. There aren't many "guess range" weapons, but if we found a true guess-range, we'd just scatter it for the guess (No BS reduction) and then work out the shot.
It does simplify the game a bit, because you're rounding out all of those fractional inches (oh, my charge fell short by .5in), but it also makes the game a lot faster, as you said, you don't have to measure every little thing. It keeps people honest as well, since there are no "partials" on the templates, no need to question "ruler-creep" or argue over whether or not that charge is actually bringing you into base-base.
To add to our lunch-time playing, we also used Dice Apps on our graphing calculators or cell phones. We rarely got through more than a 500pt skirmish, but it was still a fun way to play through some games, and let us do crazy things that we would normally have had to miss out on (8' by 8' Cityfight table with 6000pts to a side) in real life gaming.