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| | #11 (permalink) |
| Member ![]() Join Date: Nov 2007 Age: 26
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Rep Power: 26 ![]() ![]() | I second that! It's looking great! I'm loving your scavenging skillz!!!
__________________ What do you do when it's 5 in the morning, you're exhausted and you only have 3 hours until your alarm clock goes off? Troll :) |
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| | #13 (permalink) |
| Scenery Shogun ![]() Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Big Island Hawaii
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if you do a search on this forum about rivets, you'll see someone asked how to make them without buying plastic rods. I went to a craft store and picked up a small hole punch (like you'd use on paper) They make sturdy ones for leather or crafting. I bought one with the diffrent sizd hole punches for varying sizes. What they are made out of? now that is a nifty treat. Go to your corner wal-marx or home improvement store. go to th section that sells signs and stickered numbers (like for mailboxes etc.) FOR SALE SIGNs are made from the exact same Styrene that is sold to you in smaller sheets for 10x the price. yes you don't get 15 thickness options like you do with hobby styrene, but you can still stack thin pice to get thicker choices and one for sale sign costs, 1.00? USD? and it's almost 3 of the hobby sheets put together. (and what? 4 sheets goes for 10.00 USD? my opinion, so totally worth it for the budget 40ker.
__________________ Sho: out. Rome wasn't built in a day, Either should good scenery. |
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| | #14 (permalink) |
| Scenery Shogun ![]() Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Big Island Hawaii
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UPDATE: Okay. so I looked at the pieces and knew I could put more goodies on it to make it more....industrial. So , First thing I did, was dig into my bits. Inside the rhino, they give you this panel... ![]() Cut it down the middle. Keep the door on the left to the side for later. Take the "control panel" and the "bolter" and separate them. ![]() With the control panel and a bit of card (I used those preliminary credit cards that come in the mail the 'preapproved" ones....they're polystyrene too!) and made this. ![]() ![]() So then I thought "why not another few bits and bobs... so I found this piece from the rhino sprue too.. ![]() And cut it up, keeping this part: ![]() A bit of trimming, and it'll become a nice vent/access panel. Now, onto steps. I have a nice piece with a suitable second level, and people need to be able toget to it. (plus i put the control panel up top, so the techs need up there too.) Start with.....BUILDING BLOCKS! they start with a L and end in egos but we'll not go into that. ![]() ![]() Cut off the nibs... ![]() ![]() put some glue on some paper... ![]() Trim it off.. make it neat: ![]() Tada: ![]() ![]() Then back up to the now placed and dried consol panel.. added a bit of heated and bent coffee stirer straw. ![]() So there is update. I showed my clan the pics and this competition...and they demanded we playtest the scenery piece. Pics provided for your amusement. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() More to come..
__________________ Sho: out. Rome wasn't built in a day, Either should good scenery. Last edited by Shonuff; April 15th, 2008 at 10:14. |
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| | #15 (permalink) |
| Murder ![]() Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: East Melbourne Age: 23
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Dude thats looking so awesome! love the lego steps haha, but I would of personally left the holes in them as a sort of grating look. the control panel rocksz0rs!
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| | #17 (permalink) |
| Member ![]() Join Date: Nov 2007 Age: 26
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You know, Lego actually has pieces to cover the bumps and make a flat surface.... you could have used those pieces instead of savagely MUTILATING the building blocks of our childhood entertainment. I think part of me has died inside.... ![]() Your piece is looking really great, and what's more, very functional as a play piece for WH40K. I see clear firing lanes, steps that 25mm bases can stand on and, actually, in general no areas where players end up playing the model balancing game. I swear half of my games I feel like its the best Jenga player who wins... (not me, Mr Shaky). Keep it up!
__________________ What do you do when it's 5 in the morning, you're exhausted and you only have 3 hours until your alarm clock goes off? Troll :) |
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| | #18 (permalink) |
| Scenery Shogun ![]() Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Big Island Hawaii
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THanks guys. I thought about using those smooth topped pieces but alas, I don't have massiv ammounts of childhood toys to root through. I bought a grab bag from ebay with the plan in mind of using them for bits and frankensteining them. (e.g. i don't have the smooth topped ones.) Also i'm debating covering the steps with the metal grating floor as well, to match the piece. I know the smooth edges will have the yellow/black hazard stripes, as well as the safety rail around the top. But so far the piece has been painted black and primed. and I'm about to start painting.. I think i'm done putting pics up until it's fully painted.
__________________ Sho: out. Rome wasn't built in a day, Either should good scenery. |
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| | #19 (permalink) |
| Mad Modeling Master ![]() Join Date: May 2006 Location: Manorville, NY Age: 19
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Very nice indeed. I feel bad as alot of the items Im useing and ideas im implimenting are slight varients of what you've done. Like the rhino hatch bit I also used in a similar fashion. So I jsut done want you to feel like Im coping ^.^
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| | #20 (permalink) |
| Scenery Shogun ![]() Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Big Island Hawaii
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Nono no thoughts like that from me Gaunt. Just like the TV show, Iron Chef...they all use plates, and silverware, and flame to cook, they're not copying..it's the process of how it's done is the key. And we're all doing Heavy Industrial...so we're going to overlap/copy at some point (or points). I have started painting th thing last night. I'm currently at work now, so when I get home, in the daylight, i'll snap some prelim painting pics..if anyone's interested. (from WIP to PIP)
__________________ Sho: out. Rome wasn't built in a day, Either should good scenery. |
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