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| Scenery Post tips regarding scenery and modelling
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| | #11 (permalink) |
| Scenery Shogun ![]() ![]() |
Duane...your iron Chef abilities are indeed among those of legend. Awesome work on the big gen.. you got skills bro..now make it orky and paint that sucka! I want to see grot riggers and etc hanging on that sucka! Sho: impressed. |
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| | #12 (permalink) |
| Dice, Bitch! ![]() Join Date: Oct 2007 Age: 22
Posts: 2,399
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HAHA thanks chaos! And sho, I'm glad I took on this project, even though it has taken a full week to get it running to this stage with all the electronic mix-ups, it is so worth it and there will be more pieces like this in the future ![]() Thanks sho! The Building continued Now with all of the construction out of the way on the more tedious parts, its time to rig it up for play with much more detailing such as rivets, glyphs and other bits and pieces as they present themselves. Still using the same method as always, I add a lot of plates in the most random pattern I can by cutting down the sides and pulling off cardboard here and there, bullet holes are also made with a tiny drill and a very aggressive scalpel, I think that with ork buildings/structures/vehicles, larger holes are easier to come by as their materials are all second hand, thus weaker to begin with, and for example the side of this building is made of corrugated iron, not exactly made for standing up against rocket-bullets, so the holes can be made as ridiculous or small as you want. Teef have been cut out of plasticard, but cardboard still works quite well if you can find a thicker card without the folded waves inside of it, as I feel these take too much attention away. Teef are added to the catwalk section and also to the pulley and a few smaller ones line the pump arm to make it look a lot meaner. I placed a small piece of cardboard around the armature section to sort of make it a bit more obvious that its not supposed to be tampered with. ![]() ![]() The oil drum was a good choice for me personally, but as I think I mentioned before it did require some balancing, and if first grade taught me anything, its that weight is easier to distribute by simply moving the heavier end close to the pivot and it worked.
__________________ D6 back atcha! Last edited by omgitsduane; August 8th, 2008 at 02:07.. |
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| | #13 (permalink) |
| Dice, Bitch! ![]() Join Date: Oct 2007 Age: 22
Posts: 2,399
Rep Power: 34 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Some bad news, my batteries I have right now are seriously wasted, barely able to come to life for a full minute before dying, not long enough to setup and shoot some photos then chuck them on the computer.. I bought new batteries yesterday but they were so cheap they wont even turn the camera on to start with... But here are the last samples of what I got. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() All of the larger rivets were cut from sprues with a simple pair of clippers, thats why they are so damn ugly, the much thinner ones, I would normally cut from plasticard rods but I'm all out so they are just thin wire cut into very very small length pieces. The barrel I think and a door on the back of the piece are the only proper sprue pieces, but could easily be replaced by any plasticard creation, the barrel for example could be : A hopper filled with random ork junk, an ork attached to the tower, or just a big block with no real sophistication. Just a small bunch of rivets to go and this thing is ready to be painted! The base does look a little plain but I feel that I don't want to take TOO much focus away from the building itself, and the good news is that the sprues located on the base almost lock the building into place, I wouldn't want to go tipping it all upside down, but it holds well enough to keep it in position.
__________________ D6 back atcha! Last edited by omgitsduane; August 8th, 2008 at 02:07.. |
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| | #15 (permalink) |
| Dice, Bitch! ![]() Join Date: Oct 2007 Age: 22
Posts: 2,399
Rep Power: 34 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks sho! I haven't been updating because of the lack of camera to take notes of my accomplishments with this piece, I have however sprayed it dark grey like the mek shop but after that I came into problems with the gears no longer running smoothly, I took the back section apart to find days later what the problem was, and I fixed it just yesterday so I managed to get some painting done, mainly rust and smaller details like the copper wire on the armature. I also added a larger gear for the armature/pump transfer to make it pump a fraction slower, making it overal much more realistic in my opinion at least. Photos to come in a few days!
__________________ D6 back atcha! |
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| | #16 (permalink) |
| Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Arlington Tx Age: 39
Posts: 62
Rep Power: 5 ![]() |
Very cool, cant wait to see it finished.
__________________ Paul about 7500 pts of Dark Angels, probably a sub chapter with the way I have them painted up with copper edging and all. |
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| | #20 (permalink) |
| Dice, Bitch! ![]() Join Date: Oct 2007 Age: 22
Posts: 2,399
Rep Power: 34 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Just a quick update, no photos of the shop, but here is a photo of the zzzap gun I just made (still WIP) to chuck on top, using coat hanger wire for the coils along the barrel it still has lots and lots of gubbins, and the gears below DO turn the gun up and down, but only minimally sorry. ![]() Boom! shake shake shake the room! ![]() And post-gubbins. ![]() The kustom force field, I felt I could jazz it up a bit more but that would require more than just the pieces I have at my disposal, I'm a little disappointed that it doesn't sit flush with the plug I made but oh well. ![]()
__________________ D6 back atcha! Last edited by omgitsduane; August 10th, 2008 at 04:44.. |
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