Welcome to Librarium Online!
I know quite a few of you have experience converting Glade Riders to Wild Riders.
The army I bought contained 15 "real" Wild Riders, which is awesome... but I really want to be able to field 3 units of 6. I know it's not going to be possible to convert Glade Riders enough that they fit in with the real Wild Riders, but I'm wondering how you might approach a project of converting 6 of them that wouldn't look too out of place alongside two other units of the real models.
-I only have net access at work and at the girlfriend's but I'll get them up here none the less.
Method I used may differ from some other people's and involves carving some plastic but it works.
-Every time I have done this was when I purchased a new WE Battalion box so this may involve some good old bit-box diving but I'm sure you will manage.
---Note: Obviously you can try 1 model first and see if you like it. Just a friendly reminder : )
Step 1: Build the mount
-I always like to assemble the Steeds first so while I mutilate the models the glue hardens allowing for a solid foundation. You may also choose to mount the legs in this step as well as we won't be doing anything special to them here.
Step 2: The call of the Wild Bitz Box
-At this point I had all the bitz I needed from the battalion box right in front of me, so if you have solely purchased the Glade Riders alone then this may be the longest step because it may require you to do a lot of searching.
-Long story short you will need the following bitz from the Glade Guard units:
-At least 4 armless torsos (4 should come with the Glade Riders themselves)
-I also prefer to use the masked and hooded heads from the Glade Guard on my Wild rider units. This is solely a preference and is not necessary. If you wish to have the hooded masks you will need 8 hooded Glade Guard heads.
---NOTE: If you are keeping with the hooded theme you will also need 1-2 musician arms from the Glade Guard unit. The 1-2 depends on unit composition.
-You will also need to cut out all the spears that came with the Glade Guard unit, If I remember correctly the spears are modeled for the right hand, the banner for the left, and the glade guard musician for the right. So you will need at least 6 Left arms with swords, and 2 right arms with swords.
Step 3: HI EVERYBODY! are we ready for some unlicensed surgery?
What you will need:
-A good Exacto Knife (in fact this is the only tool I use on plastic models)
-Files (this is to round everything off, I personally use my knife for this)
-Balls of steel. potentially you could botch the mod and ruin a torso.
-So here we will (solely for the purpose of keeping with the wild riders theme) tone down the chests on some of the torsos. I'm sorry but I haven't seen any female Wild Riders (blame Games Workshop not me).
-You will also see 2 hands on one of the spears (I did away with one of the hands and used it as a 1 handed spear)
Step 4: Glue 'em up
-Just glue up the parts!
You already have the steeds and legs solidly glued on by now, and this will be our foundation.
-add the armless torso
-glue on the cloak/cape
--1 sword in the hand of every rider
--1 spear/banner/horn in the other hand
--put on your desired head (in my case it was the Hooded & masked heads from the Glade Guard)
-marvel in their glory.
--ps. you do not "lose" any models from this as the Glade Guard come with more then 2x the amount of heads they need, and you can use the torso's from the Glade rider's on the legs of the Glade Guard (in fact the are the same). You will also still have enough armless torsos to have at least 2 command in each Glade Guard unit (if they are of reasonable size).
Last edited by Magnitude; June 4th, 2009 at 15:50.
Wood Elf Fantasy Player
My concern is mainly that the metal glade riders are obviously shirtless while the glade guard torsos have many layers of clothing. Filing a chest down and greenstuffing muscles onto it is probably beyond my skill. The sleeves on the arms aren't so bad as you could model straps on pretty easily for the sleeves-but-no-shirt look.
Anyone know of any good topless torsos that would be reasonably proportional with the rest of the models? Marauder torsos look to be a bit *too* buff.
My other thought was to model my 6 man w/ warbanner unit as... dryad centaurs. Not kidding. It sounds absolutely ridiculous but I think it just might work. It would also look different enough that they wouldn't look strange next to the other wild riders -- the explanation being that they are so old and have been wild riders so long that the forest has blended elf, steed, and forest spirit into one. Might have to file down the chests on the dryad torsos as, like you said, the wild riders aren't female -- but it's easier to remodel bark with green stuff than flesh.
If your looking for some usable torso's (they also have a little hair on them) I would look into this.
This is getting a little cost in-effective in my opinion but that is just me.
Wood Elf Fantasy Player
I assume the ungors? That could work. I'll probably do a test model of my dryad centaur idea and if it's a disaster I'll try that. Instead of buying the whole box I'll just look into buying the torso bits separately.
I converted up my test model of the dryad centaur idea today -- was my first significant conversion and took me maybe 2 hours or so. I haven't filed the saddle off yet though, not sure if I'm going to do that or not. I'd post pics but my girlfriend just left for the weekend with the camera! So unless I can borrow one from the neighbors I probably won't be able to post until Sunday.
I think it looks pretty good though! It came out better than I expected...
Ive been following this little thread, cause I was thinking of doing the same thing
so I was wondering if you could post up some photo's of your upcoming centaurs a bit like a tutorial... if you know what I mean. If not: Like a photo of before, during and after. That way I can easily see what the steps where that where taken. And than I can use that for my very own dryads
Last edited by TheGuiding; June 6th, 2009 at 01:57.
Here are the pics -- keep in mind that this is my first ever significant conversion and my first attempt at shaping and texturing greenstuff.
Also, the camera is realllllly old and pretty crappy, so the pics aren't the greatest. One is especially blurry.
I learned a lot making this model and I expect the next five will come out MUCH better.
A basic step by step:
1. Cut the legs off of the dryad. Exactly where you cut depends on the specific dryad body -- this one I cut the legs off below the "skirt."
2. Look at the body from profile and file down one knee area such that the lower part of the body is relatively flat.
3. Stick the body onto the horse body with greenstuff, filling in the gaps. Wrap some of the greenstuff around the front to cover areas you filed down and try to use sculpting tools to mimic the basic texture of the dryad body.
4. Texture the greenstuff around the back and sides of the body -- cut notches, separate the notches, and add additional texture. Honestly, I did a hackjob of this part and you shouldn't really listen to me as far as sculpting technique goes. It was totally improvised.
5. Make little greenstuff snakes and lay them over the front and sides of the model as vines. Send some further back on the horse if you want. If you do this, flatten out a thin blob of greenstuff on the horse side and texture it like you did with the rest of the "wood" surface. I ran into some trouble here as by this point my greenstuff was getting a little hardened and I kept picking up the model in the wrong way and squishing down the snakes I had made. The result was vine work that was both too thick and too variant in diameter. You want each vine to be fairly thin and uniform throughout. Different vines can be of different thicknesses, but if the same vine narrows and widens a bunch it ends up looking more like guts/tentacles. Also, once the vines harden you can do some notching and texture work on them if you like. Don't do this too early though or you will squish the vines.
6. Glue on the head and arms. Use greenstuff in the joints to achieve the desired angle if you want.
7. Glue/greenstuff on the back branch or back branches. Depending on which branch you use, you might use 1 or 2 branches. I used two in this model.
8. Optional: try to lengthen the tail. I like this especially on the horse model shown here, which has a really close cropped tail. It just looks wrong so short, imo. It can be challenging to get the shape and texture right, and I think I did a pretty poor job of it here.
FURTHER STEPS, NOT SHOWN IN PICS:
9. File down the horse saddle (this can be done anywhere in the process, really)
10. Make some small leaves out of greenstuff to attack to the branches and/or vines.
SOME FURTHER HINTS:
- Always be sure to pick the model up from the horse's hindquarters. I kept picking it up from the front out of habit and squishing the vines and texture work that I had done. The result is a severly overworked model with crappy texturing.
- Try to work fairly quickly, or do it in discrete stages with multiple blobs of greenstuff. I did all this off of one blob, which was getting quite hard by the end.
Last edited by swarmofseals; June 8th, 2009 at 03:04.
Looks really cool!
this should be a new special unit for the upcoming army book overhauling
9: 5 : 0 :4:4: 3:7:3: 8
Unit size : 5+
Weapons & Armor : Gnarled Talons
Trample, Magic Resistance(1), Fear
When the Gnarled Riders Charge, they do not charge the first rank but the second one instead. In their fury to destroy those who hurt the forest, they trample the first rank when they charge.
+2 Strength on charge, always strike first even if the enemy has a ASF rule on charge.
-1 armor modifier (so 5+ armor becomes 6+ armor) normal armor modifiers suchs as strengt are taken as normal.
Damn, I think im going to give it a shot too... do you mind?
sure, be my guest =)