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I have a couple of questions:
1. Is a Noble on a Great Eagle mount supposed to be on a 40mm or 50mm base?
2. I'm trying to do a conversion for my Great Eagle mounted Noble where instead of riding the Great Eagle, the Noble would be modeled fighting below a tree that has a large Owl perched on it (so a Great Owl instead of a Great Eagle). Does anyone know of any owl models that are roughly the size of a Warhawk or Great Eagle model?
1) I don't think it's important as long as you consider your base as having the right size. I often use 25 mm bases for my characters and consider them as being on 20 mm ones, and that's just because I like to emphasize the base with rocks, plants or stumps.Originally Posted by MobiusPrime
2) Never seen any owl of any kind, except for a small one on a WE mage from Grenadier that I used as Naieth from the former WE book issue. What you can do is model another head with green stuff, this seems quite easy to me, but I modelled things for years. Just star with a ball, then use a round object with the appropriate size to model the eyes, add some feathers and model the beak (this must be quite smaller than the eagle's, as the owl seem to have quite a bigger head). You should also consider to shorten the neck, as owls are more bulky in appearence.
Last edited by wynydis; September 8th, 2005 at 01:47.
I think it's important to have the right base size because at some point you'll have a thick combat with units all around. A 40mm base might allow an enemy unit to wheel past you, attacking another unit, whereas a 50mm base might not allow this wheel. Or a 40mm base might have just enough room to charge a unit that is largely surrounded by, say, swarms, where a 50mm base wouldn't have room to fit.
Also, the difference beween the two bases usually matters for other reasons, but as a giant eagle is a skirmisher, its line of sight isn't restricted, so that's less important.
As for which it's on, I don't know. My guess is a 50mm base because warhawks are on 40 and I envision the eagle as a larger animal. But with only three wounds, maybe it's on 40? Maybe call GW and ask?
I agree. In 40K, you are allowed to put any model on a larger base than it is supplied with, but not smaller (so a basic trooper could be on a titan base, but a Crisis suit couldn't be on a trooper base). Basing your models on different sized bases yeilds certain advantages and disadvantages, but I only ever put models on larger bases to allow room for cosmetic scenery.Originally Posted by DavidVC04
In Fantasy, base sizes are much more restrictive. I don't think people would respond too kindly if I put Dryads on the little 20mm bases.
I only ask because my friend who's a pro with Wood Elves says I'm okay proxying my Noble on a Great Eagle by using a Warhawk Rider model for the time being. But this other guy who plays Wood Elves (no one really likes him) has occassionally run the same thing, but just has a 50mm base there (there's not even a proxy model on the base, it's just the base. Some players in my group have a habit of doing this sort of thing. We call it 'The incredible base army'. I really dislike it.). So that's where my confusion stems from.
I've considered sculpting my own Owl for my Noble. I'm decent with sculpting. One of my Warhawk models came missing a talon (the foot bit was broken) so I scratch scuplted a foot for him, and you can't even tell him apart from the rest of the unit (though I still playfully refer to that model as 'Clubfoot').
My dad (a master modeller of fine scale WWII armor and aircraft) gave me this stuff called Epoxysculpt. It's the same principle as greenstuff (mix two parts together and go to town) but it's much MUCH better. It's not as tacky, so it won't stick to your fingers and ruin a sculpt that you do. And it takes about three hours to dry and fully cure, so you've got some time to play with it before it gets to a hardening point. When it does cure, it's about as soft as GW plastic, so you can easily cut and shape it with a modeling knife (where in my experience, I've had to scrape at greenstuff sculpts, often ruining the sculpting job I did.). I told my dad about greenstuff and he (and his modelling club members) refered to it as 'plumbers ribbon'. Apparently, it's in leauge with one of the lowest end two part sculpting agents available. If you can get your hands on EpoxySculpt, I'd really recommend it. It comes it two little pots, one white, one black, but the actual parts are white and off-white colored. It cost around seven dollars. I'd check places like HobbyTown USA, or anywhere where WWII scale models are sold.
Anyway. Back to sculpting an owl. I think I might get a plastic egg or something to use as a base size and sculpt it from there. I'm not sure yet. All I have in mind right now is that I want the owl to be modular from the Noble so in case one of them gets killed in battle, I can just remove that model from play and leave the other. If I ever get a good baseline to doing this project, I'll post pictures on LO.