Color Sceme! for Glade Guard and Dryads - Warhammer 40K Fantasy

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  1. #1
    Senior Member MisterDutch's Avatar
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    May 2005
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    Color Sceme! for Glade Guard and Dryads

    Not sure if this should be in the painting section, but...

    I wanna paint my wood elves this way as seen on the gamesworkship official site:

    For this elf the colors needed are according to the site:
    Undercoat: Chaos Black.
    Basecoats: Dark Angels Green, Scorched Brown, Tanned Flesh, Ice Blue.
    Highlights: Catachan Green + Rotting Flesh; Scorched Brown + Bleached Bone; Ice Blue + Skull White.

    (by the way, do I first paint an area Dark Angles Green and then highlight it with a MIX of Catachan Green and Rotting Flesh, or do I first highlight it with Catachan Green and then highlight this layer a second time with Rotting Flesh?)

    However this aren't all the colors required, right? For example what color to they use for the base (I believe graveyard earth is often used?) and the flesh. Also do you have any tips for actually HOW to paint them, besides which colors to use? I did paint some high elves before but I didn't use any techniques or anything, I just slapped the colors on the areas which I wanted to have that color. Turned out pretty ugly

    Now, for my dryads I wanna get something that is brown because most trees have brown trunks and I wanna make it look like they are actually made out of wood. This is the sceme I found most appealing:

    And it says I need this colours:
    Undercoat: Chaos Black.
    Basecoat: Scorched Brown.
    Highlights: Dark Flesh, Catachan Green.
    Leaves: Dark Angels Green, Camo Green.

    and I ask the same about this, how to actually use these colors to get the nice effects as on the pictures? Thanks alot for all your help

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  3. #2
    /botnobot/ DavidWC09's Avatar
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    Nov 2004
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    Here's a link to my gallery. You can check out my GG and Dryad. As for the dryads, the light ones are okay, but the darker ones are a much better paint job, I think.

    As for your color schemes, GW often simplifies what they say the colors are and what you actually see. So what all did they use? Don't really know, but this one isn't a "master-class" job and is doable. for what you propose I'd do this...
    1. Undercoat black
    2. Dark green
    3. Catachan green in all but deepest recesses, leaving dark green in those recesses
    4. Catachan green/Rotting Flesh (50/50) layering so that you leave the previous two layers visible
    5. Catachan green/Rotting Flesh (30/70) layering again
    6. Rotting Flesh extreme highlight, edging
    To shortcut it, do dark green, catachan green, Catachan green/Rotting Flesh (30/70) (I think a pure rotting flesh color as the last highlight in a three-step sequence is too light, but I could be wrong)

    And I thin everything with water, especially GW paints.

    For the brown areas, you can do what they say with just scorched brown and different amounts of bleached bone, or you can use scorched brown, graveyard earth, bleached bone.

    After doing all my archers, what I found is that you can get away with three or four colors and get a nice layering effect. But I'm slow and tedious...don't know if it's just me or that I use too many layers.

    The flesh scheme in the WE army book works well. Page 46.

    I've also done my GG where I used a reverse layering. It gave the models a lighter effect (but it seems like you like the darker tones). I put down goblin green as the base coat. Then layed down snot green, leaving goblin green showing towards the outer edges. Then Dark green as the final step, leaving the two previous layers revealed.

    Dryads are fun to paint and they're like everything else. Dark base color like the scorched brown. Then working up through whatever colors you like. I'm not sure where they use the flesh color, though I have highlighted other wood pieces with fleshtones and gotten a nice effect. Inks are great here, too.

    I like dark dryads with striking highlights, and if you overdo the highlighting, just ink.

    Thin your paints for the dryads, too, or you'll lose their little swirls. I generally use a 50/50 paint water mix. If the paint forms a "bead" on the end of the brush, it's too thick. The brush should soak it in, "capillary effect", and leave a clean line when you draw it across paper or your pallette. If you think it's too much paint, draw the brush across the paper/papertowel/palette or whatever it is you use until you think you've got it right.

    I use an old drybrush to clean up goofs where I slip with the brush. Immediately use the drybrush to sponge up the mistake and then redo.

    Okay, that was more than I meant to write and it's terribly disorganized.

    Hope there's something of help in there.
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  4. #3
    Firefly Skarsgard's Avatar
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    dryads lend themselves to drybrushing.

    makes them very easy to paint.
    Once you've done most of the model the swirls are easy to pick out with some watered down ink dripped into them. The eyes and leaves can be picked out and your done.
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