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WOW... k i just started nids up AGAIN.... i flew through the plastics no problem, then i start opening my blisters and wow... i have pulled out so much hair before...
the bodyguard nid was easy.... but the ZOANS are impossible... and even the broodlord arms are giving me troubles.... i even let it set for 10-20m before i try a differnt arm. and BOOM the other one falls off....
any tips? btw im using the Games-Workshop glue.
Yeah, my lictors were a PITB to glue. My tip is to be patient. With my lictors I would glue one or two arms on and then leave them for hours to glue properly, sometimes (in the case of the Hive tyrant) adding a little more glue to help it set.
Here's a trick. It's a little more labour intensive, but, it works. First, pin the joint, second, get the joint a wee bit wet, (ie, put the glue in the socket and dip the ball into some water, removing any excess). The water makes the glue bond super fast. Query, which glue are you using? If you are using the polystyrene, also known as plastic, glue it won't work, it's not supposed to. You need to be using the other stuff, Super glue, (I can never remember the proper name for it). Once it dries, use a bit of green stuff to fill the gaps, support the joint and make it look better. Once it cures completely, it's almost as solid as a rock. I've dropped my 'fex, snapped a claw in half, but the joins stayed intact.
A little pain never hurt anyone - Larry
personally I like to use this 'steel cement stuff' its like putty but you add this other stuff and mix it really quick, and stick it in the socket and then it turns rock hard in a few mins. Its pretty good, you couldnt break it off unless you threw it at a wall.
Innocence Proves Nothing - For every enemy without, there are a hundred within.
i use a 5min setting epoxy. it works charms and the minis dont break as easily if you manage to drop them
ill pick some of that stuff up tomorrow... thanks!Originally Posted by ^jynx^
and yes i was using the super glue not the plastic....
i must say that the GW plastic glue must of came from the gods cause it ROCKS
Sorry, had to check.Originally Posted by hardcastleAnd it won't glue your fingers together.Originally Posted by hardcastle
A little pain never hurt anyone - Larry
I feel your pain. I just got done assembling and painting The Red Terror last night. I have never had so much frustration assembling a model. But in the end it was worth it and I am quite happy with the paint job.
Anyway, I use the Games Workshop Superglue and usually have no problems with it. Sometimes though like when attaching large arms (such as the lictor's or the Red Terror's) it helps to prop the model up against something so it holds the arm in place while it dries.
Of course, as someone above me said, the ultimate way to ensure your model stays together is to pin them. I pinned one of the first 3rd edition Hive Tyrants before they changed the model to merge the lower body and the upper body and the joint never broke even when the thing fell off my desk.
Also, you might consider using some kind of clip to keep the model together while the glue dries. This would be perfect for a model like the zoanthrope which is pretty thin, although it wouldn't work to well for something larger.
I found that combining a bit of green stuff along with super glue works surprisingly well, my zoanthropes are actually staying together for once.
From the unspeakable cold of the intergalactic void, an immeasurable alien intelligence moves ever closer. Barren husks of countless star systems lie in its wake.
The first tendrils of the Great Devourer, a single entity stretching over light years of space and controlled by the immortal Hive Mind, have probed our galaxy and found it rich in prey.
It has begun to feed.
This is a great method for metal. If you combine with a pin, it's absolutely bombproof and fills in the gaps at the same time. There was a BG article that called this technique "hot putty" for some reason.Originally Posted by Pectar
I find it works best with sockets instead of long seams. Put down a little cyanoacrylate (Zap-Gap), put down a little pancake of green stuff, put down a little CA and fit the pieces together. The flexibility of the GS gives it more resistance to shock (i.e., when I drop models) than metal-on-metal bonds.