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  1. #1
    Senior Member Narcotick's Avatar
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    Tyranid Problems (Modeling)

    Well, my friend is telling my to write this, cause he is having a few problems with his tyranids
    • His Hive Tyrant keeps snapping/falling off bases ect
    • How to keep metal together (The glue is rubbish!)
    • How to keep the zonethrope ON HIS BASE!


    Thanks dudes in advance for help! !


    Cheers, Narko.

    I am Narcotick. Fear me.

    LO Musicians clan.


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    Senior Member PoptartsNinja's Avatar
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    Metal models are irritating to glue. Your friend should pick up a pin-vice (a small drill), and use short pieces of metal to 'pin' the model together with the glue inside.

    As for the basing issues... I haven't figured out the solution to that myself. I too find it irksome.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Narcotick
    Well, my friend is telling my to write this, cause he is having a few problems with his tyranids
    • His Hive Tyrant keeps snapping/falling off bases ect
    • How to keep metal together (The glue is rubbish!)
    • How to keep the zonethrope ON HIS BASE!
    Thanks dudes in advance for help! !


    Cheers, Narko.
    I haven't got a 4th ed Tyrant, but glueing the Carnifex was easy. I assume you are using the special plastic glue for models? The proper plastic glue partially melts the plastic and sets in about 5 mins. 30 mins for a hard set. You only use super glue for glueing to metal.

    For my 'fexs first I cleaned him up and dry fitted the peices. Blutac is a great help here. Next I glued one leg to the body and let it set. Then I placed his second leg in the socket & positioned him on the base. Next I glued both leg, body and base togther. You need to do this to allow allow a bit of movement in his hips to set the feet flush on the base. You want both feet securely glued. You will probably need to hold it for a few minutes to ensure every thing sets in the right position.

    Super Glue is evil. My first attempt to use it almost got me hospitalised. I had carefully filed the two peices and had every thing ready. Holding the peices in one hand I unscrewed a brand new $1 cheapo tube. I carefully squeezed it ... nothing? So I squeezed it harder ... nothing again. Squeezed it real hard ... nothing. Then it clicked, I unscrewed the tip revealing the metal seal. Using a pair of nippers I peirced it ... releasing the pressure which sprayed glue into my eye. Super glue stings. Instinctively I put my finger in my eye & glued it to my eyelid. Fortunately I managed to carefully peel my finger off before it set properly. For the next 2 hours I had what felt like sand glued to my eyeball.

    There is an art to using super glue. First it can set in seconds. The oils in your skin and water act as a catalyst to speed setting times. It sets very fast when thin. It doesn't glue to itself very well.

    One trick is to use epoxy putty to fill the joint. You will still need to pin high stress joints. Clean up the two surfaces. Put a very small ball of putty on the surfaces and push them together. Carefully separate the pieces & clean up the excess putty. This gives you a very close fit with no movement in the joint. Put a drop of glue on one surface and quickly join the other. WARNING: this will set in about 5-10 seconds. I have had the putty occassionally separate from the metal. Just reglue it. I have never have it fail a second time.

    With the Zoanthrope add some extra glue to fill the gap between the base & the pin. Put it on some newspaper so you don't glue it to the table.

    :rolleyes:

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    To get the Hive Tyrant to stay on his base you need to pin him to it.:yes: I had that problem too. I asked the guys at my local GW and they said pin it, he's fine now.

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    Senior Member Badmovies.org's Avatar
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    I agree that pinning will fix most of the problems you noted. It is the same reason you use mortise and tenon joints in woodworking. The mechanical nature of the joint reinforces the glue. Always use pieces of paperclip pins to reinforce any metal to metal (or plastic) joint.

    You can use pieces of thicker brass rod for the bigger joints. Pick those up at your local hobby shop or even a hardware store. I used them to attach bloodthirster wings to a hive tyrant. I think that they were 3/32 rods, though you might be able to use some larger ones.

    Use a little bit of water to speed up the superglue starting to set.

    Also, with pinning to the bases, use something like greenstuff or green aircraft putty on the underside to increase the surface area holding the pin in. On my zoanthropes I did not like them sitting atop the weird claw or tail that was sticking out of the ground. I covered that with green stuff and made it a little mound. One I turned into a stack of spheres instead, meaning to represent a pile of primative plants when I finish painting the piece.
    Tyranids: Hive Fleet Kohr-Ah

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    Senior Member Marvus's Avatar
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    Yeah i pin all my largish models to the base. For that i use a normal drill and a 1mm drill bit. For the metakl rod/wire i either use a paperclip (cut to length of course) or flourist wire. With the flourist it comes with a plastic coat so just peal this off and you have a stiff piece of wire.
    SOrry if this offends you but some people have done this before. Use Super glue is for metal NOT plastiuc glue, it doesn't work too well .
    Anyway hope it's helped.

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    Member Melkor's Avatar
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    I Use Loctite Gel Superglue, most things work fine without pinning (even metal wings!) but its still a good idea to pin. If you do use it then DO NOT moisten the joint, it severly weakens the bond when using Gel.

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    Senior Member andrewthotep's Avatar
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    When I first started with metal figures I used the first superglue I came across, which was very fluid out of the tube. I discovered quickly that many of the modelled pieces do not have great surface-to-surface contact, even with the tabs and sockets modelled into them. That, and that spuerglue prefers to stick pieces to fingers than pieces to other pieces. A couple of tweezers with padded tips and a modelling bench-vice make life much easier.

    I found a thicker gel-type superglue that does have some gap-filling capability, as long as you give it 12-24 hours to cure. It works much better.

    I have recently picked up a pin-vice and use it on everything. It's great.

  10. #9
    Senior Member PoptartsNinja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewthotep
    That, and that spuerglue prefers to stick pieces to fingers than pieces to other pieces.
    PoptartsNinja's Interesting Fact of the Day: Superglue was developed as a quick way to seal a bleeding wound, which is why it sticks to flesh better than it sticks to anything else, and also why hospitals keep a superglue solvent on hand.

    That said, there's a reason why ambulances still use bandages to seal wounds, so if you're bleeding, don't use superglue unless you're pretty certain you'll bleed to death before the ambulance arrives.
    Last edited by PoptartsNinja; February 26th, 2006 at 05:33.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PoptartsNinja
    PoptartsNinja's Interesting Fact of the Day: Superglue was developed as a quick way to seal a bleeding wound, which is why it sticks to flesh better than it sticks to anything else, and also why hospitals keep a superglue solvent on hand.
    Correction:
    Superglue was created by the Eastman Kodak (photography lenses, not medical) company in an attampt to create a clear gunsight material in 1942. Superglue was not proposed as a bandage until almost 20 years (1964) after it was invented and did see limited use in Vietnam. It wasn't until around 1998 the FDA finally approved a version to be used for general medical use. So the fact that superglue bonds skin instantly is an unplanned benefit, not the initial intention.
    http://www.straightdope.com/mailbag/msuperglue.html

    Don't you just love the Internet?

    Quote Originally Posted by PoptartsNinja
    That said, there's a reason why ambulances still use bandages to seal wounds, so if you're bleeding, don't use superglue unless you're pretty certain you'll bleed to death before the ambulance arrives.
    The majority of superglue formulas are not healthy to bond skin to close wounds as they contain chemicals that cause skin irritation and inflamation and do not prevent the growth of bacteria in the wound. It took almost 40 years for them to create a version that finally won FDA approval and the glue in the $2.99 tube definitely isn't it. Next time you cut yourself, use a bandage instead.

    I'm not trying to be a jerk, but there are lots of young people who view this site. Maybe we should refrain from dispensing unlicensed medical advice before someone takes it and gets hurt?
    I do not criticize. I do not offend. All I offer is my opinion which means only as much as you make it.

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