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Im not really sure if this is the right forum for this sort of thing but im just going to stick it in here because its about tyranids. Anyway moving onto the point of the post, ive never actualy painted a tyranid that im happy with. Its not the colour scheme that my problem is with, im just a lousy painter and end up getting the wrong colour in the wrong bit.:wacko:
If anybody has any tips on painting them to look like fierce wild animals and not like pansies id like to hear them. Also should i give them a coat of varnish. Ill add some pictures of my tyrant below so you can take a look (and yes i know, bone sword and lash whip is useless. Im going to try and change it soon to 2 pairs of scything talons and wings.)
1. Those pics are way too big!
now, on to the painting...
2. Remove all mold lines! bad painter or not, mold lines look nasty;
3. Thin your paints (or use less on the brush), your paint looks way too thick, which obscures details.
4. Paint carefully, I'm not a talented artist but my minis come out very nice because I paint carefully, painting a mini (without adding freehand work) is just paint by numbers (for instance I see purple paint on the top right tiny chest claw) :
5. Go to coolminiornot.com and read articles on highlighting and drybrushing, that will be enough to improve your painting dramatically;
6. Painting decently takes some time, don't rush, use small brushes, with a little bit of paint, and you'll get good results.
I don't want to double post, but i think it's important to reiterate one point that comrade bonegnasher advised us about.
Patience is really the key to the game. I'm one of those people who really likes to see results as soon as possible which is a pain because if you want decent minis it's very much a labour of love.
So don't rush it, start on a 'gaunt before building up to your big bugs. Try and get inspiration from nature or films or whatever turns you on.
LO RulesOriginally Posted by AnonymousOriginally Posted by Cyric
Ooh thanks. I do really need to get better at dry brushing, the grey bits were supposed to be skull white dry brushed onto black. Ill try and take my time most but that thing took me a week as it is. Ill go check out that website now.
Seeing it enlarged makes it look much more horrible lol.
The key to drybrushing in a lot of cases is to build up to your final color, and do it lightly. For instance, you may want to drybrush codex then fortress then skull white to create a nice contrast.Originally Posted by Tunnelgaunt
whoa those pics are huge :wacko: i cant even see them or read the first post
first of all take off the pics and second i did mine befor i sold them regal blue and blazing orange bones skin regal blue armour things blazin orange. blue ink wash the regal blue
You might want to try the infamous 'dipping'. This involves dipping a painted model into a solution of varnish and stain, you can buy this ready-made as Minwax Polyshades Antique Walnut from any Ace Hardware/Home Depot type store. If you want to try it here is what you do:
1.) Prime a model with a white undercoat.
2.) Paint the model, only applying single layers of paint. For example, if you want a purple carapce, simply paint liche purple over the white undercoat. This process will progressively shade your model for you, so it will darken the color a bit.
3.) Stir up the Polyshade and dip the model in and back out. Use a spare brush to control the drip so it doesn't bunch up.
4.) Let it sit overnight, then Matte Varnish if desired.
Here is an example of three models I did with this process, using nothing but a quick application of golden yellow and warlock purple beforehand (plus some snot green for mucus-areas). I just snapped the pic in a hurry so sorry for the clutter.
Edit: After letting them sit, I matte-coated these models, then returned and paited gloss varnish over the purple areas to make them seem slick while the carapace is dry. Before matting them, dipped models will be glossy.
Last edited by Tyranid Cerebrate; July 7th, 2006 at 16:25.
When painting anything including Tyranids it is a good idea to divide up the model.
Doing this makes it much easier. I start with the exoskeleton then the joints and details like eyes and teeth. The carapace is the last part I do because it is the most raised area.
For any good paint job light is essential. Many lights are yellowish which will effect how the colours look as you apply them. I you don't have good light the results will suffer.
The best lighting is daylight there is nothing as good. Of course it may be dark when you paint so a pale white light is best. Use light that fills the room this will prevent strong shadows from forming which make it much harder to see what you are doing, it also strains your eyes which can hurt you.
Any people new to painting should let their eyes get used to looking at small details for prolonged periods. This can be done by taking five minute breaks any time your eyes feel odd or you have trouble focusing, and at least once every half hour.
You should varnish your models particularly the metal ones. What kind of varnish is your choice. I use satin varnish on mine and then gloss varnish on the slimy areas.