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Erm, Terrain Making

2K views 19 replies 10 participants last post by  Lone Wolf 
#1 ·
Hey! I'm thinking about doing a 4' by 4' board for Cityfight but i want it to contain plenty of destroyed buildings, barricades and possibly a large open field style area.

I was thinking about adding some forge world buildings but they're pretty expensive. Does anyone have any ideas on how to replicate the effects for as cheap as possible?

Plus i want some sandbags but i don't know where to buy them from. Could anyone advise me on this?
 
#2 ·
Oooo i do i make city fight terrain alot, big biulding easy to make with good effect, all u need is 12" x12" polsyrene 5 mm thick, and polstyrene glue, not cement.

and a very sharp crafh knife, can make a 12" by 12" bye 12" building in under 5 hours with every floor and windows on 1 side for aproxabmatly £2.
 
#3 ·
I use my home made foam cutter and some construction grade poly steyrene....
(the blue kind), it comes in thicknesses of 1, 1.5, 2, and 3 inches. and comes in about a 2 foot by 8 foot sheets. That's enough to make quite a bit of terrain. Plus you don't have to worry about it flaking apart like cheap styrafoam. Total cost per sheet is about 6-8 bucks........ A little more up here in alaska though.....

As for sandbags I make them out of clay that you can buy from craft stores such as michales. Make it how I want it then cook it in the oven...... After it cools off. I paint it to go with whatever board I'm using.
 
#7 ·
Must not be the same stuff. It's the type that they use in construction. Really hard stuff. It's compressed and doesn't flake away. I'll try and upload a picture of it and some of the terrain I've made with it when I get home from work. The stuff I use is real solid. It cost me around 8 bucks for a 4' X 8' sheet. So it's not too expensive.
 
#8 ·
Cardboard cut at weird angles and sealed with putty is really useful to me.
 
#10 ·
No, I haven't seen the German Bunkers. Post a pic!
 
#12 ·
I am myselfvery interrested in defensive buildings like bunkers forts and dfensive-lines. in holland we've got a lot of those and all the bunkers look like they are the same but their not. I'm member of a organisation which protcts bunkers and stuf from being destroyed. but i cant post pics on this topic and it;s not a good idea to post some in the mini's gallery :D

searc with google and you will find a lot of pics. search on: bunkers, fortifications, forts whatever you like and you will find a lot of pic

If you want your bunkers look like those from WW 2 you must make spikes at the roof and sides. a lot of bunkers had those


--for the greater good--
 
#13 ·
Slayero, in the business of bunker-picturing, time is not of the essence!
 
#16 ·
Thanks for all your tips guys. I'll try to get started straight away encorperating all your helpful hints.

Unfrotunately it might have to wait until after christmas when i have some cash!!!
:p
 
#17 ·
Does anyone know how to make your own sandbag barricades etc. for as cheap as possible?
 
#18 ·
Okay, well if you'd like to make it yourself, here are some tips.

Plaster can make a good modeling base since it's semi fragile, and chunks off when you scrape it with a dull edge like a hammers blade or a rock hammer, also it's relatively thin and weak when it hasn't dried fully so it's a prime time to use things like explosives, or flamethrowers on it, however I wouldn't suggest it unless you've had years and years of experience with such things like me.

As for the sandbags, you could probably make a bunch of those really easy... just go to a local fabric store, pick up some canvas or other rough material (about 1/2 a yard, or look for "scraps" they're at most fabric stores, they're really cheap usually 1/2 off the retail price which is usually less than $5 a yard unless your dealing with some really really high quality fabric like egyptian cotton, or silk. Now pick up a pack of cotton balls, you should now have enough materials to make about 200 sandbags,

Cut them into 3/4"x1 1/2" rectangles, fold in half long ways, and stitch two sides together (not the folded side, this stays that way. Now, here's the moment of decision, does it look cool like that ? or do you want it sealed ? If it looks ragtag and quickly made, and that's what you're going for, cool, leave it. If not, turn it inside out, and fill it with a cotton ball to give it a full look, then stitch the last side shut, sorry no way to close it without showing a little bit of stitch.

Also if you want to form stable walls with this technique, you can use either modeling glue, or if your fabric is stretchy enough, you can use split tooth picks (snapped part down) and make little walls by gently pushing the sandbags onto them.

Or if you want something a bit more stable go with fabric pins, flat head not balled head.
 
#20 ·
The way i made my textured paint was simple.

First i got a small amount of a water and poured it into a suitable container,
then i tipped in a little modelling sand and mixed in a bit of Wood glue when i had mixed this up (It needs to be quite watery but not too much!) i simply used a standard brush to apply it and left it to dry overnight.
When i came to it the next morning i just spraypainted it black (Which also helps to keep the sand stuck down) then drybrushed it, and there you have it, a cheap alternative to textured paint.

I also tried this again with some sand i "borrowed" :blink: from a building site and it works well to create different textured buildings!

I know this isn't really a textured 'paint' but its nice and easy to do!

Try it out and let me know how it went for you.
 
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