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Here comes DR. TRAN!
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177 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok kids, so in celebration of 5th I started Chaos Daemons army, and for basing I've decided to go slightly industrial. That being said, I've decided that my entry into Iron Chef Scenery III is going to be an abandoned imperial communications array (presumably abandoned after the daemonic incursion!) So without further ado lets get started.

Starting point:


Here we've got our coat hanger, I chose this kind that you can get from a dry cleaning place because it has both wire and a cardboard tube, so I have a variety of materials to start. Also we have some imperial bitz and a cool spring I found on the ground walking to the store today.


Shown here also are some plasticard strips, bars, and tubes; a yogurt cup (organic and fat free are optional) and where most of my bits are coming from. I picked up this tank for 15 USD at our local store's Warhammer Welfare/Welhammer sale. I'm sure bitz from any imperial or chaos tank will do.

Getting started:


take that tube and cut it a little more than 3/4 the way down.


now take the tube and rip off the paper in some places, it's abandoned remember? This is an easy way to make rust and decay spots before you even start painting. Next make yourself some rivets out of styrene rod and then cut yourself a strip of THIN plasticard to wrap around the top. The end result should look like this:

So what I've done here is glue the plasticard strip around the top of the tube, then take a smaller piece of strip to make a connector plate and glued on 2 rivets. Then take a knife to it and rough it up (abandoned remember?) And set it aside.

Wire parts:


Here I have circled the 3 pieces of the wire hanger part you want to cut off, get some heavy duty cutters because your hobby clippers just won't....cut it.....:rotfl:
You are going to use these pieces to make ladder rungs.


So cut off small pieces, put them in a vice (or if you lack one, some for real pliers) and bend those little things into shape. Careful cutting here, because a piece of metal flew off and ripped my finger open! I'll spare you photos of that, needless to say, it hurt. So i put something cold on it: :beer:

Base of the tower:


Take your yogurt cup and some kind of hatch looking bit and cut a whole in the center of the bottom of the cup. This may not be necessary for all hatch bitz, but mine has a lip on the bottom so it fits snuggly into the hole in the tank. If you don't make this hole, then your hatch won't be flush and it might look kind of silly.


So now take those little ladder rungs, mark yourself some lines and punch some holes into the side of the cup and make them as even as possible. Now you have a ladder to get up to the top of the base of the tower. Also you will note here that I gave the top of the base a similar treatment as the cardboard tube: plasticard strips, small connector plate, and some rivets. Then I took a knife to it to rough it up some.


You should now have something that looks like this as well as a long cardboard tube with rivets laying off to the side. NOTE: Be sure to sand or scrape the letters and symbols off the bottom of your cup! It may not be that noticable now, but after you paint it someone might think your communications array is both recyclable AND full of peaches.....not very imperial or industrial if you ask me.

Thats all for now, next update in a few days!
 

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Member
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145 Posts
Excellent progress so far. I also love the zoomy inny picture you did of your ingredients at the start. Fantastico!


Of course... it's one of the mysterious Recyclable Yoghurt comms arrays that the STC forgot... *winks* I won't tell
 

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Scenery Shogun
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917 Posts
Awesome work Nillic! This is what i love about these contests..Seeing what everyone else is doing and where your imagination takes you (obviously to the fridge to eat some yogurt :) )


Keep it up man, This is looking sweet.
 

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Here comes DR. TRAN!
Joined
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177 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ALRIGHT, time for round 2 *ding ding*

Power Cabling:


so what we have here is the left-over pieces of hanger and some 3/4 inch tubing. This kind of tube can be bought at a Lowe's or Home Depot or any large chain hardware store, it costed me about 23 cents for a foot. Large plasticard tube or ANY TUBE can be used for this part, this just happens to be what I had. So cut off 3 equal sections.


take the 2 longest pieces of hanger and clip them off. Next, clip them into approximately 3-4 inch lengths, until you have a pile of them. I needed even more hanger, so I got another wire hanger out of the closet and clipped it up too using those heavy duty wire cutters up there.


so now, you do this: take your pile of wires and start pushing them through the tube pieces until you have a fairly round shape. So now you have 3 tube pieces stuffed full of wires! If you happened to stuff enough, you can stop there. But I wanted to make sure they weren't moving so I took some SUPER THIN, like water thin, cyanoacrylate and dripped it in from the top, bottom, and sides. This way the really thin glue leaks down into the bundle and keeps everything steady. This will painted up later as a bundle of power cables being held together with metal straps.

Control Array:


now get those tank bitz together and do this stuff. This happens to be the armoured sponsoon from the annihilator, so i partially made it, then took some plasticard, scored and bent it and then glued it all together like shown. I also took an antenna piece and the twinlinked flamer and made a small communication array out of it. The next part is built to taste using whatever bitz you have on hand:


so this is the interface for the tower, it will be attatched via the large bundled power cables (shown furthere down) I took the flamer array and glued it onto the platform I put in the middle of the sponsoon armour.


get a small square of pink or blue foam and cut it to the size of the control panel. Next take plasticard strip and your prefered choice of rivet style and band the top of the foam square. And carve a hole in the back of the square: this is where the cable bundle will go.


so this is what you should have on hand now: cable bundle, control panel, foam box, and you'll see here and square piece of plasticard with a hole in the middle. It has been cut, bent, and chipped for the worn look I want. It is going to be the plate on the box where the cables go it. If you look at industrial reference photos you'll see that when 2 pieces meet, such as cables and their boxes, pipe and tanks, or those kinds of things, there is a connector plate where it meets, it usually doesn't just go straight in. I think it is the little details like this that really make scenery stand out and feel life-like.

So now put everything together so it looks like this:

here we have the front and back views of the control panel, as well as a close-up of the connector plate. It is deliberately bent up around the corners for aged/forgotten effect. You can also see I took a couple of the wires and bent them out, as if they might have exploded in half.

alright, enjoy! see you next post.:soldier:
 

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Gentlemen.
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738 Posts
Avatar, i belive the rules say you cant use CoD sprues, or pre made stuff, or models and such making most of the thing. Nothing is illegal about the odd bit or two. :act-up:
 

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Here comes DR. TRAN!
Joined
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177 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This is only the second piece of scenery I've ever made in my life, so I am in the newbie group.
Thanks everyone for encouraging comments!
 

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Scenery Shogun
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917 Posts
nice work with the clotheshanger wire.
Reminds me a bit of what I have planned with a portion of mine.

keep going, this looks great!.


Sho: Subscribed.
 

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Here comes DR. TRAN!
Joined
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177 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ROUND 3: FIGHT!

This round is dedicated to making the array base look more interesting. SO, lets get started!




So, first you'll see that I cut the lip off of the yogurt cup, after some consideration I thought it looked really silly staying on. Next, cut yourself a door out of some side of the cup, I did mine approximately 90 degrees from the ladder. KEEP THAT PIECE OF PLASTIC! Next get yourself some card (plastic or otherwise) I used black mounting board for 2 reasons: I'm a graphic designer and we have this stuff laying all over the place, and 2 I wanted something black. Next get a bunch of tubes, rods, and other wire and cable looking gibblets together. You'll see I have the round cylinder from sponsoon of the tank to use, those nifty pieces of twisted wire on the top of the hanger, as well as the rest of the cardboard tube. And some other rods and stuff. Our goal here is to make an opening into the base of the array that repairs might be made with.



So no real instruction here, just free-form it however you think looks best. I wanted it to look like the wires and stuff went all over the place, and even have some disapearing into the blackness. So now when I paint this part I'll leave the card black so it looks like shadows are covering the rest of the insides. Also, I added 2 plasticard hinges for a door we're going to make, one slightly off kilter because of decay.



So get these things together. The same thin strip you've been using to border things this whole time, the plastic rectangle from the cup, a whole bunch of rivets (weeeeee) and a round hinge. So for the one I've made, I used the nail I have laying around to unclog superglue bottles and cut off the sharp end and stuck it inside some plasticard tube that i had lying around that was, by coincidence, a perfect fit. WEEEEEE. So you'll probably be asking yourselves "why is this guy using so many rivets?" well, because as primarily a necron player I never get to use them and they just look so much fun to me! and I like little details.

The Door


So make yourself a reinforced door like so. Tear up whatever parts you see fit, or none at all. I even drilled a small hole out for where one of my beloved rivets finally gave way to the grasps of Nurgle over time. Don't forget to leave 2 spaces for the little plasticard hinge plates we put on the base earlier! I also made a handle just like we made the ladder steps earlier. Hanger wire, bend, drill, glue.

The Base


Glue it all together like so! I've given a close-up of the hinge, I like how it turned out. Since the inside of the door will be visible I put 2 connector pieces of tube on the back of the handle. Like I've stated before....small details = :sinister:

The Lovely Assistant


Get yourself a lovely assistant like so, or if nothing else a runty little grot. You'll need someone to hold the base down while you drill it. As you can see I prefer this huge antique drill, and while you may say "Nillic, that is the most ridiculous thing to use on Warhammer models ever" Let me explain:
You're going to be drilling through THIN plastic. If you use a regular drill, it will spin so fast the plastic will melt AND you have very little control with what your doing. One small mistake will send that 1000 RPM monstrosity into your scenery in some unexpected way, or your lovely assistant's hand. Even if you use a rotary tool so you have more control, you still have to worry about speed and meltage, which WILL OCCUR. Trust me from experience. This giant antique drill is really just like a super-sized pin vice. It has a variety of interchangeable bits and you have to spin it by hand and you can slowly readjust as you go. Soooooo, get her (or him or it) to hold the base so you can drill out the middle of the top, like this:



Now you have a nice centered hole and no melting.

Insert the post



So take your pole/post you made from the cardboard tube earlier on and insert it into the hole and glue it in. Now you have something that looks like this! WOW, it actually looks like...something? We'll be adding antenna and radar nodes to the post later, as well as some stablization wires that will be tied to the ground. So until next time.....C&C!
 

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Here comes DR. TRAN!
Joined
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177 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Tonight my friends, I come bearing not an update but sad news.

I'm afraid I am going to have to forfeit the Iron Chef Scenery III Competition. :crying:
I will be going out of town Wednesday to attend a class in North Carolina and will not be back until after the due date of August 20.

Thanks to everyone for your support and positive feedback, when I return from the secluded mountains of North Carolina I promise to finish this project, and I will still use the rules for Iron Chef Scenery (I.E no big kits, limited bitz etc.)

Once again thank you guys, and I'll talk to you again in 3 week's time
 

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Murder
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3,492 Posts
Awww dude that sucks! this was looking awesome, all the pipes on the inside of that yoghurt can (whatever) looks sweet! too bad you have to pull out.
 
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