Sorry for snapping, its just when I see links handed out and they cant walk the person
through except refer to the tutorial given its just a bit of a let down feeling.
An expansion on what I have said:
Okay so drybrushing right? : Take your brush and gently or harshly wipe the
residue of paint off, use a kleenex for this. To test you'll want to flick the
brush on your finger and you'll see the raised fingerprints drybrushed.
Gentle wiping: Allows some paint on the brush to be left on, you'll have to press
less as you flick your brush across the model. This is a good use for gems, or
cloth and fabric. Excelent for metal wires ect...Used primarly on boltguns.
Harsh wiping: Allows all the paint to be wiped off, allowing for only residue to
be left on the brush. Drag your brush against your finger again and you'll notice
a vast difference. Particular uses include armour highlights ect...Weapons, swords
wood...ect..
Mixing Mediums: When you use your mixing of the three colors I have given
as an example you'll be wanting to use ratios, I'll explain how to get an intermediate
color.
Abreviations:
DA/G = Dark Angels Green (any kind of dark green)
SG = Snot Green (or intermediate green)
OG= Olive Green (or bright, dull green/ but lighter than your snot green)
To get your base coat on, fully paint the area in DA/G
Mix a 50/50 ratio of SG and DA/G
Lightly wipe your brush and gently flick the newly mixed medium onto the model,
(you'll want to decrease the area that you paint with your new medium)
Comments: Your bringing your shades up by intermixing the two colors so it will be
a smooth transition.
Now, (Harsh wipe) Drybrush SG on lightly over the mixed area of SGand DA/G.
I'm guessing you could probably take a shortcut here and use olive green with
a light drybrush.
Then your going to proceed to your metals. repeat the same process but only use
Light dry brushing. Oxidized copper only tends to be on the edges, or in the recesses
of the fabricated metal. Any further commentary let me know.