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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Another question about what paints to use! I'd like to paint a mini in copper colours, but the copper needs to be slightly oxidated, it should have a very subtle green sheen in some areas. What would be some good colours for this effect? Tin Bitz, Brazen Brass, Dwarf Bronze and a mix of Dwarf Bronze and Mithril Silver for the highlights? And then finally a wash of Dark Angels green?

Any tips?

EDIT: I know about the painting metal article in Black gobbo. But the copper looks there aren't really what I'm looking for.
 

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An idea

I'd look at copper and the available paints, pick the closest in comparison. And instead of of green over the copper, paint green spots (irregular in size), then the copper jaggeredly over the want area, leaving the oxyized part exposed. Then to give the warped oxyizide copper look, gride up salt really fine, put glue on the green spots and cover the spots with the salt powder. Then repaint green. Then wash the whole thing in water downed black and brown ink (let each dry). Then layer the sports with multiple greens that you think depic what the copper in that state would look like. This just an idea, but sounds like it may work.

[EDIT] This is if you want that encrusted look.
 

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Art Culinaire
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Instead of just giving the guy a link and saying here go try this, using this and that blah blah
blah, try giving some help based on your expertise.


I've had some really good turn outs for oxidized copper, basically oxidised copper is
green as the metal rusts. You'll be needing a few shades of green and green ink.

For your greens you'll need snot green, an olive green, and a dark angels green.

Now your looking for examples you say? Go henceforth to the costume books
or movie guides and look at the elven armour in the second age when they defeat
sauron momentarly.

To get this effect you'll be basing your models with a dark angels green, and using succissive
drybrushing using snot green, and olive green. You'll want to blend your colors together
to have an intermediate medium to use between colors.

Now you'll be wanting to have three different kinds of metals. A brass, dark gold and a light
gold.

You'll be using drybrushing for this phase for the armour while mixing your metals to get
to the highlight. You'll want to wipe your brush off and go really light on this, to much
metal could mess up the effect your trying to create.

Hope this helps, if you have any questions drop me an email.

Dj A.K.
 

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DJ AUN KOR said:
Instead of just giving the guy a link and saying here go try this, using this and that blah blah
blah, try giving some help based on your expertise.


I've had some really good turn outs for oxidized copper, basically oxidised copper is
green as the metal rusts. You'll be needing a few shades of green and green ink.

For your greens you'll need snot green, an olive green, and a dark angels green.

Now your looking for examples you say? Go henceforth to the costume books
or movie guides and look at the elven armour in the second age when they defeat
sauron momentarly.

To get this effect you'll be basing your models with a dark angels green, and using succissive
drybrushing using snot green, and olive green. You'll want to blend your colors together
to have an intermediate medium to use between colors.

Now you'll be wanting to have three different kinds of metals. A brass, dark gold and a light
gold.

You'll be using drybrushing for this phase for the armour while mixing your metals to get
to the highlight. You'll want to wipe your brush off and go really light on this, to much
metal could mess up the effect your trying to create.

Hope this helps, if you have any questions drop me an email.

Dj A.K.

I dont have any expertise painting weathered metal...all I have is a link.
 

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NonstickRon said:
I dont have any expertise painting weathered metal...all I have is a link.
Yeah, and don't be rude man, he ask for advice I gave it. People have use the technique on bases, why not models?
 

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Hey, there is a specific product for this - it is called verdigris. It is like a gloopy substance, that looks like white glues kind of. You just water it down a bit, plop it on the metalic copper paint, and then whipe it off of the highparts.
 

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Art Culinaire
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Sorry for snapping, its just when I see links handed out and they cant walk the person
through except refer to the tutorial given its just a bit of a let down feeling.

An expansion on what I have said:

Okay so drybrushing right? : Take your brush and gently or harshly wipe the
residue of paint off, use a kleenex for this. To test you'll want to flick the
brush on your finger and you'll see the raised fingerprints drybrushed.

Gentle wiping: Allows some paint on the brush to be left on, you'll have to press
less as you flick your brush across the model. This is a good use for gems, or
cloth and fabric. Excelent for metal wires ect...Used primarly on boltguns.

Harsh wiping: Allows all the paint to be wiped off, allowing for only residue to
be left on the brush. Drag your brush against your finger again and you'll notice
a vast difference. Particular uses include armour highlights ect...Weapons, swords
wood...ect..

Mixing Mediums: When you use your mixing of the three colors I have given
as an example you'll be wanting to use ratios, I'll explain how to get an intermediate
color.

Abreviations:

DA/G = Dark Angels Green (any kind of dark green)
SG = Snot Green (or intermediate green)
OG= Olive Green (or bright, dull green/ but lighter than your snot green)

To get your base coat on, fully paint the area in DA/G
Mix a 50/50 ratio of SG and DA/G
Lightly wipe your brush and gently flick the newly mixed medium onto the model,
(you'll want to decrease the area that you paint with your new medium)

Comments: Your bringing your shades up by intermixing the two colors so it will be
a smooth transition.

Now, (Harsh wipe) Drybrush SG on lightly over the mixed area of SGand DA/G.

I'm guessing you could probably take a shortcut here and use olive green with
a light drybrush.


Then your going to proceed to your metals. repeat the same process but only use
Light dry brushing. Oxidized copper only tends to be on the edges, or in the recesses
of the fabricated metal. Any further commentary let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think so far the tips by DJ Aun Kor and Lictorinthegrass are the best. I'm only going to buy one green color though for this, and that'll probably be Dark Angels green. In real life, oxidized copper is a bit lighter, but I think this will look better. I'll probably try to drybrush Dark Angels Green near the recesses and around the corner, then drybrush with Tinbitz, then Brazen Brass, maybe Dwarf Bronze and then a highlight of either a mix of Mithril Silver and Dwarf Bronze, or Shining Gold and Dwarf Bronze (whatever looks best).

If you guys have better tips for this, I'd still like to hear them! And when I get my paints and try my scheme I'll ofcourse give you some pictures ;).
 

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The Fallen
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Personnaly I would be very carefull, you are likely to end up with green metal if you arent.

I would use a thinned green ink wash over the final paint job myself
 

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personally I use scaly green for copper oxidization. paint the copper normally, then in certain areas give it a wash/ glaze (depending how strong the effect should be) of diluted scaly green. when it`s dry repeat the process on a smaller area with scaly green mixed with skull white.
 

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I agree with a darker green if you're looking for a "lightly" tarnished look. Bronze turns a dark brown, then dark green before going really light green an then whitish. The bright green bronze you see from time to time is stuff thats really been neglected for a very long time. Good luck. Maybe you can post your results in the articles section of this site so we have something to link to later. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Please guys, stop fighting. I must say the tips people posted here were more helpful than that tutorial, because I do not use NMM on my mini's, but just regular metal.
 

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Well, you could just ignore the first part of it detailing the brown undercolor. The latter part with the gray/blue/greenish wash would still be applicable, as well as going back and highlighting, but perhaps you'd use your original metallic color instead of white.
 

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Thread Killer!
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Vallejo makes a model color called verdigris glaze (832) that is just about as perfect as you can get without using a verdigris kit.

With a verdigris kit (I believe modern options makes them) you get copper flakes that you brush on and then a second verdigris solution that makes the copper "rust" quickly.

Cheers,

-Mike
 

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My (US) White Dwarf arrived just yesterday, and in it is a Masterclass by Tim Lison on a World Eaters terminator Lord... The Brass/Coppery trims are slightly "verdigised," and he used a base mix of 50/50 DA Green and Tin Bitz, then used the lighter golds in the range to highlight it. The greenish Tin Bitz just stays in the recessed areas, giving only a slightly green tint while the rest is a lovely smooth copper. Subtle and quite effective.

EDIT: Memory is not Truth.

I just had another look. Indeed, he does start with the 50/50 DA Green and Tin Bitz Mix. Then it seems he has a mix made up of 50/50 Burnished Gold and Mithril Silver, which he adds little by little into the green metal mix, using the Burnished/Mithril Mix as the final highlight. He then gave the areas glazes of first green, then brown, then yellow inks. When glazing, make sure you thin the inks down 10:1 with water or so; they should look like Dirty Water rather than inks, and serve to tint the area only, not totally re-color it.
 

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Art Culinaire
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I find this thread quite amusing, the great scholars of warhammer come to pit their
wits to help innocent LO citizen in a debate =)
 

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Librarian from Hell
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I'm always going for the simplest way as I'm quite a lazy one. This is how I do (though I'm nowhere near good Slorak or the others in skill)
Black basecoat
Drybrush copper
Watered down Jadegreen or Dark angels green
Drybrush gold, only a little though to indicate the edges.

It's a quick and easy way.
 
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