Librarium Online Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was wondering, what is the quickest or cheapest way to remove super-glue. I'm not sure what kind it is, but I think it may be a Games Workshop brand glue. It leaves a white-ish outline on the parts glued, and if left for a while the fumes (or so it seems) creates a white-ish texture on the surrounding areas (ex. inside of a tank is tinted white)

Can anyone help ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry for not being clear before -- I was in a hurry. What I mean is that the model is poorly constructed and I want to re-do it, the white stuff I was talking about was just to describe the glue I used.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,770 Posts
I just use amodeling knife to take off the worst bits.

You haven't tried with petrol/gasoline or something else like that?

Cheers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
485 Posts
I don't think you should try petrol on a plastic model
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,770 Posts
Hmmm yea you say something there...

Gotta remember that...

not petrol on plastic, not petrol on plastic, not petrol on plastic, not petrol on plastic, not petrol on plastic, not petrol on plastic, not petrol on plnot petrol on plastic, astic, not petrol on plastic, not petrol on plastic, not petrol on plastic... now I remember it...


Cheers!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
lol, what happens when you put petrol on plastic ?

Camus, I'll try the hot water method...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Plastic is derived from petrol (its a petrochemical product), so it will dissolve it, since petrol is a very strong solvent (its used for cleaning in some industries did you know...)

Superglue can be removed from humans or almost anything else with acetone (nail polish remover), and this is the chemical remover that you can get with some glues (in the extra little bottle called debonder). Occasionally neat alcohol will also work, but it depends on the make-up of the specific superglue itself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok I think I'm going to use acetone instead of hot water, since I read in another thread that hot water makes plastic more pliable - and I don't want to mess up my tank's structure. So do I brush or soak with the acetone ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Either's fine, or alternatively spray with an airgun or electrical paint-sprayer.

I find that if you submerge or apply the acetone to the area and leave it on for a little while (don't wipe it off for about a min) then it will loose the superglue or dissolve it completely enough to remove it all in one clean wipe.

You are also correct in the assumption that hot water will make plastic pliable, but it does depend on the plastic as to how hot the water needs to be to make it warm enough to bend. Most strong plastics such as epoxy or acrylic/styrene will need to be submerged in water for a long period, or subjected to an intenser heat than boiling water to suffer permanent bendy-damage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I see.

Ok, So far so good with the acetone, I'm currently un-assembling a Hammerhead railgun just to test it out, and I'm almost finished. But there's one spot near the front where the acetone can't get in and dissolve the superglue. I'm about to try submerging the whole section in the liquid (I was brushing it on for the rest of it), then I'm going to move on to the tank.

Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Acetone vs Plastic

Acetone is just as bad as petrol for removing superglue, if not worse, and submerging the whole piece in acetone will turn it into a gelatinous mass if your not careful.
I've had to take apart models under the same conditions. A very sharp hobby knife with a # 11 blade, and cut along the seams, very carefully.
If you use the acetone nail polish remover, it is oil based and will leave a residue on the plastic.
Good luck, and I'd be intrested to know how your acetone trial turns out.
"Every day above ground is a good day"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Games Workshop uses an injection-molded high-density styrene rather than a cheaper polystyrene, acrylite, acrylic or epoxy, so acetone bathing will not harm the product, although with any surface in acetone, you will get a slight coating effect, which can be washed off with warm soapy water.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Acetone vs GW plastics

Hey, thanks for the info on GW plastics. I didnt know this. I'll certainly keep it mind the next time I buy painted GW plastics and have to clean them. :eek:
"Every day above ground is a good day"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Okay, I dunked the end of my railgun completely in Acetone, and I was able to pry it apart (since I don't have a sharp enough knife ...) I tried it on the side door of my Hammerhead Tank, and I ended up deforming slightly a piece of plastic that was glued to the door...As such, I am not going to continue with the project until I can get my hands on a sharp hobby knife.

Do they sell those at most Games Workshop stores? And how much would one cost on average ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
I think they sell a refillable retractor knife at GW, and they are about £3 ($5 USD).

Update: Actually, checking the catalogue, no they don't sell knives at GW (possibly a licencing issue), so your best bet is a local hardware store for a retractable and refillable knife (Lowes, Home-Depot, Target US or B&Q, Homebase UK).

I'd personally though, recommend an X-Acto knife which has changeable blades, and can usually be found in a local craft store, Wal-Mart (US) or almost any online hobby retailer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Ohh forgot to ask, was the plastic a piece of kit plastic (i.e. did it come in the kit?) or was it added on for detail? This might help to find out which plastics are softened by solvents and therefore a list could be made of the best ways of stripping each material.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yes, the piece I want removed was from the kit...it is the piece of my tank. I might stop by a hardware store and check out the knives there sometime..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,770 Posts
As a sertain person said in this forum, Acetone is not good for plastic.

If plastic is left to long in an Acetone bath the plastic will dissolve, it will become a thick gel like substance, like you have allready have said.
I don't know but have anyone tried with Yxylene?
I don't thinks its that hard on plastic, but then again it's not that good for your health.

And for all of you "wanna try everything" guys: White Spirit is a no go!
Trust me...

But anyway... is it just me or has Games Workshop changed the type of plastic that they sculpt the frames or model from.
I got a squad for 40k recently, and it seemed lighter in colour and the model itself didn't look that "acurate" as it should be.

And also as a tip from me to everyone...
Do not use "Humbrol" polystyrene cement on games workshop model... it seems to melt the plastic..

Eztrovia!
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top