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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Question 1

i just read a tutorial on dipping an i like the idea but i was wondereing after i dip it is it impossible to do touch ups on it ??? ( as in can i no longer paint anything else on it???)

Question 2

is dipping about the same a glossing???

Question 3

i am planning on buying some tyranid to start my amry just a abot 1 month before they come with the new codex ( its a 30% off sale) should i buy warriors, carnifexs, or a hive tyrant ( or do you think something else??)
 

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Hello and welcome!

I can't answer any of the dipping questions since I don't dip. I can offer personal opinion on the models though.

You can't go wrong with either three choices. In order of priority I'd go with this: Hive Tyrant > Carnifex > warriors.

This is assuming you have nothing to start with. The tyrant is pretty much a "must have". You'll need it for your HQ. For the fex, you can't go wrong with having a few. Extra fexes are always good. Warriors are decent and versatile. But given the higher price of a tyrant and fex, you're getting more use/value buying those at 30% off over the warriors.

If possible, get all three! Or a fleet box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hello ^^

You are right on one thing i do not have any nids yet ( not a single one ^^ ) so i would like you opinion on what i should buy before the new stuff comes out. Also would you mind taking 1 or 2 pictures of your army?? im figuring out a few things ( like if i should dry brush, antique, or dip) it would be much apprecitated ( and if anyone can answer my other questions i would aprecitate that as well ^^)
 

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Blood Boy
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I don't dip but I am fairly sure you can paint on the model once the dip is dry. Things like eyes and teeth will typically benefit from some extra attention at this point. Highlights and so on can also be applied. It also helps to diguise the dipping and makes your painting look better and more complex. However I think that addition work will require that you varnish the model. I'm not sure if dipping really provides a protection like varnish or just seems to give a similar effect.
 

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Greetings hive fleet generals.
About the dipping it is perfect for me anyway saves me tons of time! (since i have 3 armies,lol)

Here is some links you should check out

Dysartes.com - The Dipping Gallery

A quick guide to ‘Dipping’ your minis | Librarium Online

I have been using the guide on LO
And the dip i have been using is "Quick Shade - Strong tone" from Fanatic army painter.
Quick Shade - Strong tone 249:- Unispel

Here is a picture from my own flyrant, though i didn't like the glossy effect that i got from the dips so i used mat varnish and this is the result.

Hope this helped some.

Jim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i like your Flyrant and i see what you mean that 1 tutorial the quick 1 u posted from librarium online is where i got my idea of it but what if i want 2 do it on a darker color ( like a really dark gray will it do anything to make it look better ( or ruin it)

consider my color scheme a

Tennessee Vols orange ( maybe slightly darker) carapace

Darkish gray body ( with a slight bit of black drybrush )

( havent decided the claws and flesh bites yet)
 

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so i would like you opinion on what i should buy before the new stuff comes out.
--- Many things will probably remain ok-good once the new Codex comes up, the biggest question mark is usually the biomorphs and -weapons to give your creatures.

For example, Tyrants, Warriors, 'Stealers, Carnifexes, Gaunts, Zoanthropes will in all likelihood remain solid choices in themselves. Thus, buying the models but refraining from assembly until the Codex will probably work well.

The Broodlord, Tyrant Guard, Lictors, Raveners, Gargoyles and Biovores are more dependant on your style and potential rules changes. Thus I would avoid suggesting them until the new Codex comes out, after which You can proxy the more interesting units/biogear choices for some testing games to find out how they work and whether you want to include them in your army officially or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
so its ok to buy the carnis, tyrants, gaunts, and warriors as long as i just dont assemble them till the new codex?
 

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Id hold off on the guants, with the 2 being separted, youll find you wont use some, eg its very rere to have a 50:50 combat and shooty guant spilt, so save yourself the cash and buy them when the new boxes come out.
 

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IMHO you can't go wrong with getting any figs now. Nothing is really going away so you should be safe.

Regardless of codex, I'd recommend magnetizing your models. This will allow you to bring different load outs to the table without the need to buy more models. Want a cc fex? no problem, just put the CC parts on and you're good to go. Here's a few shots of a magnetized fex with different configs:





 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i think i will go with 1 fex and 1 group of warriors ( what im planning on buying before jan. ) then i will have money saved up ( i am selling a marine army on ebay ) and get the new codex for the new models to start my army ^^:soldier::soldier:
 

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TamCoan has an excellent point, which I've touted myself in the past: magnetizing models. Both the 'Fexes and the Tyrants can benefit from exchangable bioweaponry and -morphs. These two were the traditional choices for me, but considering that the Warriors are rumoured to get a bit more modifiable with the next Codex, they're likely to benefit from magnets as well.

The ones commonly recommended would be neodymium magnets, which are of sufficiently small size to use on models while remaining effective. Check your local hardware and DIY stores, but there are stores operating online with worldwide shipping in case there are no stores near you.

And TamCoan, a very nice looking paint job!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well to tell you the truth i will probably not be using magnets :dont-know:

but im not saying that using them are bad (me and my friend luke ( my warhammer buddy) just dont use magnets)
 

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Thats the size I use for my bigger buddies. But beware that the weapons will move, so if you want them to stay in a specific position you might want to add some greenstuff around it just to touch the other side and create some friction to prevent it from spinning. If you put too much, the magnets wont touch and you ll lose strength though.
 
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