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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, my recent eldar army is starting to take shape, but my wave serpents seem to be to heavy in the back, so they hang backwards when i put them on their flying bases. It looks stupid, so i wanted to make them heavier in the front, and i haven't glued the 2 large pieces together yet, i still have to basecoat them, and i noticed that their is a small trench-like thing that remains open when you glue the pieces together. It's in the wings in the front. Just take a look if yours aren't glued yet...

But sand is not heavy enough, and I have no idea what to put in there, or no ideas for alternatives... Could you guys please help me out? Thanks
 

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Eh?
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Yeah, I have this same problem, though admittedly I didn't have the foresight to think of weights before I painted and glued mine :?

Would a fair bit blue-tac put in between the the canopy and bottom bit do the job? Put it around the cockpit area, and under the front wings, assuming there is there is room. Just the first thing that came to mind really - any small weight that you could stick or glue would do the trick.
 

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Drill the hole that the flying base sticks into so that it is a bit bigger, then cut off the top "tab" of the flying base stand. This way the WS is being supported by the thicker part of that stand and shouldnt lean back as much, or at all.
 

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The plastic wave serpent model end up with two stand holes; one from the falcon kit it's based on, and a second, a bit further back from the wave serpent additions. My wave serpent actually leans slightly forward using the rear hole, and back using the front hole.
 

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The Fallen
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as per others, the best way of dealing with it is not to redress the balance point of the wave serpent but how the stand attaches, if you can do this well you also get rid of those embarressing moments where the stand breaks off, there are several methods, blue tack, green stuff, re drilling to use the wider part of the stand, or pinching the ball and socket joint off a passing Land speeder or Piranha
 

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Have you tried simply modeling terrain to support the back of it? it dosn't even have to be at the very back, just so that the base is not under such strain.
 

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Ohhh... the rocket builder in me got all excited when you said to balance the WS by moving the attachment to the center of gravity!

I use the "enlarge mounting hole slightly and remove the nub on the flying base" trick. It works fine. I keep a set of drill bits in my hobby box and use successively larger bits until it sits where I want it. I would resist weighting the nose as this will exacerbate the tendency of the flying base to break. If you find you still need to shift the hole slightly, make the hole larger and use the meaty part of the flying base. If you don't do it now, you'll be doing it down the road when it breaks on it's own.

For me, the trickier one is the Fire Prism. That big hunk of metal tends to really make it back heavy.

Have fun!
Homer
 

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I just put books under the rear of my wave serpents so that they are level to the table while the super glue attaching the flying base to the wave serpent dries. I leave it to dry for 24 hours, and mine are all level.
 

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I just put books under the rear of my wave serpents so that they are level to the table while the super glue attaching the flying base to the wave serpent dries. I leave it to dry for 24 hours, and mine are all level.
It takes all kinds. I try my best not to make anything permanent that doesn't need to be.
Don't you find it difficult to pack them for shipping?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It takes all kinds. I try my best not to make anything permanent that doesn't need to be.
Don't you find it difficult to pack them for shipping?
see that's exactly why i don't want to glue mine on the bases... okay some interesting responses:

-i'm not going to make any nice scenery-things out of it, because i havent based any models yet, so no scenery (yeah, i know, shame on me :|)
-the cutting the tip off idea is pretty cool but it sounds to me like i'd have to glue it on...
-with my serpents the tip of the base only fits in the wave serpent hole, the falcon one is to small, maybe try to broaden it and use that one????
 

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see that's exactly why i don't want to glue mine on the bases... okay some interesting responses:

-i'm not going to make any nice scenery-things out of it, because i havent based any models yet, so no scenery (yeah, i know, shame on me :|)
-the cutting the tip off idea is pretty cool but it sounds to me like i'd have to glue it on...
-with my serpents the tip of the base only fits in the wave serpent hole, the falcon one is to small, maybe try to broaden it and use that one????
Count me as another vote for moving the hole. I had this issue with my fire prism and i had to move the hole under the weight to support it better and i made the hole bigger in the process, whilst it sits a little lower than the others it's stability has increased dramtically. I have a pic somewhere of where i moved the holes on it if it'll help?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Count me as another vote for moving the hole. I had this issue with my fire prism and i had to move the hole under the weight to support it better and i made the hole bigger in the process, whilst it sits a little lower than the others it's stability has increased dramtically. I have a pic somewhere of where i moved the holes on it if it'll help?
that would really help, if you could upload it?
 

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The cleanest way to make the holes bigger is with drill bits. Your new hobby knife blade will do it in a pinch, but I find drill bits to be more precise. I have this set in my hobby box. It has bits from 1/32" to 1/8" and they are short so they fit well in a pin vise. I think it was $7-10 at the Home Depot. You just start with the smallest one then test fit the stand to see if it looks right standing up. Rinse and repeat with the next larger size until you are happy.

I don't glue the stand in and as long as you have the stand 1/4-1/3 inserted in the hull, it sits level and looks fine. I try to use the shortest two stems available for my Fire Prisms.

Homer
 

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It takes all kinds. I try my best not to make anything permanent that doesn't need to be.
Don't you find it difficult to pack them for shipping?
I always pin my weapons options (and I mean everything - exarch arms, heavy weapon marines, veteran sergeant power fist arm/power weapon arm, etc) but I always glue my bases on. I want my miniatures to be completely stable while I am using them, as there are fewer things that upset me more in the world of 40k than when my bases become unstable or even start falling off in the middle of a game while I am moving my models. More than simply being annoying, it makes for inaccurate measurements and idle time, which is not only tacky, but can also be a burden, especially during a tournament. So I always glue the bases onto my models. I completely understand why people would not want to, and I do not fault them for it. But I prefer my models to be firmly attached to their bases at all times. I use an army bag with removable foam buffers specifically cut for all of my pieces, so transporting them is not a problem.
 

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Here's another suggestion. Like the one article about magnetizing the weapons, you can do the same for bases. First find a roll of roofing nails. They should be short with a brass or copper look. Next check to make sure you have a drill bit large enough to match the size of the nail. After that, look into some small rare earth magnets (they work wonders). You can buy these as a stack for cheap amounts off of ebay. Before assembling your base together, drill into that little whole so that you can place part of that nail into it. Just like that clear pin, glue it into place. At this moment you should have the moderate size head of that nail at the top. Don't worry about how tacky this looking, like any other base in your army, there should be some color to this base as well. You can basecoat this thing at any given point, but I usually go to the next thing of finding my center point with the magnet. Take one of your magnets and place it about 1/4 to 1/2 an inch further behind the original whole. If that works then take a pencil and trace around the magnet. That will be your center point to drill through. Drill your hole for the magnet, then take a thin piece of plasticard and glue the plasticard over that hole on the inside. From the outside place your magnet back into that hole, and check to see if its flush enough with the drilled hole. If not, green stuff or any epoxy putty will help fill in that gap. Once you gather up your putty, fill that original hole back up, and then no one will ever notice the difference. Mind you, to a finished model this may be a bit more difficult, but is still possible. The holes aren't exactly the same between each eldar tank, they vary slightly on thier location. Especially the Fire Prism. This is what I have done to each of mine, but my bases are also basecoated black. This is also capable for the jetbikes too, except you dont have to open them up at all, just drill and glue. The magnets make great additions for movement in cases and securing them when playing. So you will never have one of those embarissing moments when a flight base decides to not stay. I hope this helps anyone that has had those same troubles.
 

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The Demagogue
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I like big trunks and I cannot lie
All you other Eldar generals cant deny
when a serpent flies by with a 10 banshee cry it makes you wanna :grin:
when they get sprung and fly into cc it's the last place anyone wants to be
so come on you know it aint wrong to let that tank drag across the lawn
 

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Amishcellphone.

Your lyrics are either made of win, or the standard by which failure is judged.

I found them amusing nonetheless.

Kudos to you. :D
 
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