I have used Citadel and Vallejo. I don't really have a favorite out of those two, but I want to know what you use and reccomend. And I don't do oil-based paints (ie Testors) becuase they're to much of a hassle to use.
People including myself get good results with Citadel paints -there are the odd colours which are total pigs to use but that is usually a 'nature of the beast' issue with the colour itself rather than the paint brand.
They are expensive I suppose but not madly so as some people would have you imagine
You are never likely to lose a supplier of Citadel Paints. They are also always updating the formulas (at least on some of them) the paints are a lot better now than they were ten or twenty years ago.
Finally Citadel Paints are designed specifically for the hobby.
The bottom line though is that you have to try them all and see what is the best for yourself and what you like using. Don't use something other than Citadel if the only reason you can give is a dislike of going with the 'mainstream' or railing against GW's corporate mentality. Conversely if you just don't like them then don't use them because they are readily available in ready mixed colours.
Do your own research but my advice is to save the legwork and just get Citadel stuff - then again I am a shareholder so I would say all that wouldn't I?
Superglue is £3 in Hull is this a North/South price differential thing?
I think the superglue from citadel is just relabelled Loctite superglue, I don't think they have cyanoacrylate manufactorums in Nottingham but I could be wrong.
Plus why do you want huge bottles of the stuff anyway? It is a necessary evil but is evil stuff nonetheless and the more you have the greater the chance for unfortunate glueing body parts to solid objects with great embarassment style accidents.....
Yes for my crimes I actually get money back from GW so it is kind of in my own interests to see them do well.
Funny feeling really - resenting paying £6 for two minis that would have cost £2.50 for five when I first started in the hobby but at the same time the more they screw me for, the more they screw everyone else and consequently the more I get back at the end of the day.
I don't win in the end but I don't totally lose either which is encouraging in a way.
Instead of superglue, try a 5 minute model bonding binary epoxy, it's stored sort of like a needle, except it has 2 tubes, when they combine at the tip, the catalyst forces the resin to set hard in 5 minutes, it's workable in 15 minutes, and fully bonded in 1 hour. It is kind of expensive, but it won't dry out, and if there is a bit on the tip, it can be cleaned off with a pin.
It's as effective as superglue, but it isn't wasted because it doesn't dry in the tube when it's exposed to air.
Also you can use the resin first, and once you have it how you like it, apply the hardening catalyst, so you don't have a limited time to get it how you want it.
If you plan on using it, make sure it will work on both metals and plastics before you buy it.
Also how I use to do plastic models with superglue is I would apply a large amount, let it get to a gel, and clean most of it off. Then apply a small amount to where I was bonding it to, for some reason the model glue I used would actually melt the plastic, and make a totally secure bonding but you have to be very careful because if you do this wrong it would mess up the finish of the paint.
The spray my bro talked about was "Zip-Zap" or something, it makes the figures really brittle and they just fall apart after a while. Use it on the first bit of glue to get it sticking, then apply glue over the Zip-Zapped glue.
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